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Elevation: 5,499 ft 1,676 m
GPS: 51.27179, -115.49357
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Shared By: JS BC on Nov 7, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry
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Description Suggest change

Black feather hosts some of the better limestone found in Banff National park. The rock is highly water eroded, and fantastic. Route range from pure vertical dances to large roofs and burly boulder problems. The rock tends to be very sloppered with high friction and includes many sidepulls and gastons. Technical seems to always be the style of most cruxes and routes. Routes are not sustained, rather having one crux for the grade or a redpoint crux also. Onsighting tends to come easy on routes on black bullet rock, yet very hard to read on yellow or white rock. The crag offers great sun year round, especially on Punk Wall and Rainbow Wall. The crag boosts everything from 5.7 to 5.13b with the possibility of futurstic 5.14 lines at Rainbow- yet with alot of work. the crag has much more potential for being Banff's best all round crag. A list of very classic routes resides here including one of the valleys best technical power test pieces "carnal prayer mat" 12b, the perfect 10c "Sister Ray", the burly "Out to lunch" 13a/b. the technical 38m pumpfest of "Power Of Dreams" 11d, the cryptic very high quality "Brain Dead" 11c/d and the technical corner stemming masterpiece "Vanilla GUERILLA" 12a.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at Lake Minnewanka and follow the road from the parking lot North past the service gates until the paved road end. Continue on a wide dirt trail for 5 minutes until you reach a bridge crossing Stewart Canyon. From here cross the bridge and head West following Stewart Creek/Canyon until a signed and large junction, stay left at the junction and continue following the creek until you see a large cliff/headwall opposite the creek. From here look closely on the right for a climbers trail that branches off the main trail. Follow this trail to the mouth of Black Feather Canyon. If you miss the climbers trail the Stewart Creek trail crosses the drainage of Black Feather Canyon and you can just follow the drainage up to the mouth of the canyon. 

Black feather skirts around closely to wildlife corridors. Be careful and look out for bear warnings. Many of bears have been spotted on the appraoch. Respect the wildlife and don’t litter. This is a national park!

43 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Feather Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Feather Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
● Holiday In Cambodia
Sport
Punk Wall
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
● Holiday In Cambodia Direct
Sport
Punk Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
● Sister Ray
Sport
Punk Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
● London Burning
Sport
Punk Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
● Minor Threat
Sport
Punk Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
● Frappuccino
Sport
Mind Games Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 10
● Brain Dead
Sport
Mind Games Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
● Mind Games
Sport
Mind Games Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
● Edge Grinder
Sport
Mind Games Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
● Mind Bender
Sport
Mind Games Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
● Vanilla Guerilla
Sport
Punk Wall
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
● Carnal Prayer Mat
Sport
Punk Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Holiday In Cambodia Punk Wall
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Holiday In Cambodia Direct Punk Wall
 9
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Sister Ray Punk Wall
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● London Burning Punk Wall
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Minor Threat Punk Wall
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Frappuccino Mind Games Wall
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Brain Dead Mind Games Wall
 10
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Mind Games Mind Games Wall
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Edge Grinder Mind Games Wall
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Mind Bender Mind Games Wall
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Vanilla Guerilla Punk Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Carnal Prayer Mat Punk Wall
 7
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black Feather Canyon »

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