Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Kinkasan

International > Asia > Japan

Description

Kinkasan is a small island in Miyagi Prefecture in north-eastern Japan. It lies in the Pacific Ocean approximately one kilometer off the Oshika Peninsula.
Since few year climbing it’s Légal

Once on the island, as Kinkasan is sacred, you are only allowed to sleep in the shrine’s accommodation.

is definitly worth a visit, even if the accommodation is pricy (70E a night with full pension). Wherever you lay your eyes, there is perfection: in the wood work of the dragons that decorate the beams, the stone work of the stairs, the way trees have grown, the wild life. Kinkasan feels sacred. Really. And it is an immense privilege to be allowed to climb on the island. The monks decided, made the choice to welcome rock lovers, and hopefully their openness will be a good decision.
Soon you can sleep outsite in tente

​It stil a big potentiel of first accent to do !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5LHmiRV9IQ

For all information and organisation you have to contact: Firstaccentjapon
https://www.facebook.com/first.ascent.japan/

onceuponaclimb
https://onceuponaclimb.co.uk/portfolio-posts/japan-trad-blog-4/

Getting There

Tokyo to Sendai
Kinkasan is a six hour drive from Tokyo, and the boats that used to ferry between the mainland and the island.
For more information you have to contact the association Firstaccentjapon

https://www.facebook.com/first.ascent.japan/

Routes from Left to Right

5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Light
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
Moai
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Caro dièdre
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Arrete ton crack
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 1
La Puyfage de Kinkasan
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
Super Mama
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
First accent Japon
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Gaijin Corner
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c X
 1
French Samouraï
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
La rutenoise
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
La voie Bouissou
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Crack adict
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
la voie Silhol
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Luky Boy
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
Kinkasan paradise
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Les nan thé vert à Kinkasan
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
l’angle Ben
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
la fissure à Nal
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 1
Pour une poignée de sponsors
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Quarry boy
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Light
 1
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Moai
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Caro dièdre
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Arrete ton crack
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
La Puyfage de Kinkasan
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Trad
Super Mama
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
First accent Japon
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Gaijin Corner
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
French Samouraï
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c X Trad
La rutenoise
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
La voie Bouissou
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Crack adict
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
la voie Silhol
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Luky Boy
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Kinkasan paradise
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Les nan thé vert à Kinkasan
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
l’angle Ben
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
la fissure à Nal
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pour une poignée de sponsors
 1
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Quarry boy
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pour une poignée de sponsors 5.11d
[Hide Photo] Pour une poignée de sponsors 5.11d
Lights 5.12c/d
[Hide Photo] Lights 5.12c/d
New 5.10c
[Hide Photo] New 5.10c