Monte Agner VF Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 8,697 ft | 2,651 m |
GPS: |
46.27473, 11.95118 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 1,695 total · 22/month | |
Shared By: | kenr on Sep 21, 2018 | |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
Monte Agner is way over on the east side, away from the peaks and multi-pitch routes and via ferrata that most climbers associate with the Pala group.
But it has two or three Via Ferratas of its own, one a notorious testpiece of the Dolomites VF routes.
VF Stella Alpina is tough in terms of: length of sustained steep climbing, length of commitment, and total vertical to the summit. It also offers a long stretch of not-obviously-loose rock on the south + southeast side of Mt Agner (but after that stretch, it requires a much longer stretch which is loose dirty slopy slabby rock).
Climbed in "free" style it offers less-polished rock and more interesting situations than other big-mountain difficult Dolomites VF routes. See the route description for strategies to focus more on quality climbing versus slogging up + down non-fun slopes.
VF Canalone is much less difficult, and useful as a descent route. It is also a shorter way to ascend to the summit than the Normal route (which wanders around). Mostly loose dirty slopy slabby rock. Covered by snow later into the spring/summer season than other routes.
. . . (Not to be confused with _another_ "Cannalone" via ferrata route (more difficult) in the western half of the Pala mountain group).
The route of the first ascensionists is often thought of as the "normal route" / Via Normale -- and nowadays it is itself a Via Ferrata in its final section to the summit (shared by the other two VF routes). Sections of Via Normale at similar elevation ranges to VF Cannalone mostly have similarly loose dirty slopy slabby rock.
This area has been added MountainProject, because currently (as of 2018), the MP database administration requires that GPS tracks be connected with a distinct climbing Area. So it enables some GPS tracks for approach + climb + descent for these Via Ferrata routes to be valid and available in the MP database.
But it has two or three Via Ferratas of its own, one a notorious testpiece of the Dolomites VF routes.
VF Stella Alpina is tough in terms of: length of sustained steep climbing, length of commitment, and total vertical to the summit. It also offers a long stretch of not-obviously-loose rock on the south + southeast side of Mt Agner (but after that stretch, it requires a much longer stretch which is loose dirty slopy slabby rock).
Climbed in "free" style it offers less-polished rock and more interesting situations than other big-mountain difficult Dolomites VF routes. See the route description for strategies to focus more on quality climbing versus slogging up + down non-fun slopes.
VF Canalone is much less difficult, and useful as a descent route. It is also a shorter way to ascend to the summit than the Normal route (which wanders around). Mostly loose dirty slopy slabby rock. Covered by snow later into the spring/summer season than other routes.
. . . (Not to be confused with _another_ "Cannalone" via ferrata route (more difficult) in the western half of the Pala mountain group).
The route of the first ascensionists is often thought of as the "normal route" / Via Normale -- and nowadays it is itself a Via Ferrata in its final section to the summit (shared by the other two VF routes). Sections of Via Normale at similar elevation ranges to VF Cannalone mostly have similarly loose dirty slopy slabby rock.
This area has been added MountainProject, because currently (as of 2018), the MP database administration requires that GPS tracks be connected with a distinct climbing Area. So it enables some GPS tracks for approach + climb + descent for these Via Ferrata routes to be valid and available in the MP database.
Getting There
All three VF routes are usually done by way of the Rifugio Scarpa-Gurkian hut (modern, very nice), west above the village of Frassene.
This hut is close next to the top station of a ski lift whose bottom station is in the village of Frassene -- but this lift almost never operates in summer.
. . . (Perhaps some weekend day in August?)
This hut is close next to the top station of a ski lift whose bottom station is in the village of Frassene -- but this lift almost never operates in summer.
. . . (Perhaps some weekend day in August?)
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