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Cape Ann Quarries

Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann

Description

Some of the old timers don't think there should be any info on the quarries posted to the internet. It's been said that there are hundreds of named routes in the area, but they are only for Cape Anners to know about. Some are afraid access will be lost to the areas if the world were to find out about them. Not the best plan to preserve access if you ask me, but until a consensus can be reached, ask a local.

The shear granite slabs of Flat Ledge Quarry and Carlson’s Reservoir could be a climber's paradise. Trash Pit is home to some alpine-like potential and grows ice in the right conditions. Central Park is a shaded nook of seclusion, with unique and stunning features, and a lot of potential.

Some of the quarries are on private property, and the others are surrounded by it. Because of the nearby homeowners and the amplified sound in the quarries, a low profile is a must here if access is to be preserved.

Getting There

For Rockport Quarries: Park at Granite Pier in the upper lot, where indicated by signage (in summer there’s often a fee to non-residents). Walk across the marina and under the Great Arch. Behold!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The climb. (Loose blocks are seen near the top-center of the climb.)
[Hide Photo] The climb. (Loose blocks are seen near the top-center of the climb.)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] What’s the deal with access to these various quarries? Aug 22, 2018
Joshua Klockars
New England
[Hide Comment] Honestly, I don’t have a clue. I’ve heard secondhand from a good source that climbing is legal and the public ones are good to go. The signs at the gate say “no swimming fishing canoeing kayaking”. The few times we’ve climbed there have only been at Butman Pit, which is obviously not a drinking reservoir. We’ve also taken pains to be quiet, more because of the neighborhood than the legality. I’d like to work with the CACC and SNECC to legitimize these areas. Aug 22, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
[Hide Comment] From what I understand, the rule is “no swimming” at Carlson and Flat Ledge. Those parcels are now public conservation land. It would be good to put a strategy together to have them list climbing as an explicitly allowed activity. Klioma Reservation has quarries that are private conservation land open to the public. Same rules, similar strategy needed. Klondike is publically owned, privately operated with strict no trespassing. Nelson’s and the others near it are private; however; it appears they allow hikers but no swimming, etc. Thompson and Steel Derrick are private with no trespassing. Steel Derrick allows swimming for private users, like a club. Aug 22, 2018