Elevation: 10,288 ft
GPS: 37.777, -111.899 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,894 total · 279/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Aug 1, 2018 with improvements by apross
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

A west facing wall with 50' to 100' line potential and good rock. The approach is short and the talus is large and stable (except where there is a fixed line). All combined, this makes this new area quite exciting. Both main trails take you right to the areas towers.  The southern tower is The Control Tower and the northern tower is TSA Tower.  There are lines on each (see photos).

Getting There

Take USFS Rd. 021 off the main road and follow it to the wood rail fence. Go north around the fence and right back to the road you were on.  There are two cairns on either side of this cut back to the graveled road.  Follow this graveled road until you reach a large man made clearing complete with piles of campfire wood.  Go a bit farther and then park just left of very large debris piles.  There is a fire ring and stumps here. To the south lies the new area "The Research Station" and to the west, through more debris piles find a cut trail leading to the edge and the top of "The Control Tower." Walk north along the edge to find several reasonable chutes (the first with a fixed line) down to the stable talus and your lines.  OR you can camp at the Shangri La camp site and take the trail SW from there to the Air Strip and right to the TSA tower.  Just north of here is a cairned easy down chute with a fixed line to the stable talus below (see "approach trail map").  From the bottom of the fixed line follow cairns and a pseudo trail to the lone fir tree growing out of the talus.   Then back up to the wall where you will find many good lines.  This "hike" up the talus slope is problematic.  There are dangerously loose blocks that can create lethal consequences if not negotiated carefully.  I recently added a fixed line up there to militate some of these factors.  I also added a rap-in station that puts you right at the base of the Hangar and it's cluster of many quality lines.  This is the safest way to this location.  Find a red rope tied to a tree (see picture below) leading to an anchor you can safely reach mid way along the Air Strip wall.  A bit of iron was added as well so you can step over the edge comfortably prior to weighting your rope.  This anchor also serves as the anchor for the climb "Instruction Manual".  When you exit the area climb out this way or walk down the talus (safer) north to the a fore mentioned tree then up the trail.   All lines are ordered left to right as you face the cliff line and DO NOT reverse order when a line is on a tower facing the cliff.  The list is what you will find (climb to climb) if you were to walk from the most northerly to the most southerly route.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Air Strip

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Checking For Structural Integrity
Sport, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Wing Commander
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Hangar Shadow
Sport, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Mind the Gap
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Checking For Structural Int…
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Wing Commander
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Hangar Shadow
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine
Mind the Gap
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in The Air Strip »

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