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Trillium Lake Crag (Mosquito Butte)
Oregon
> Mt Hood National Forest
Description
Trillium Lake Crag, also known as Mosquito Butte, is a small crag just around to the north side of Trillium Lake. At about 30' high, it doesn't hold the longest or most epic routes, or even the most aesthetically pleasing routes, but it does provide some fun, moderate, mostly sport climbing in a beautiful setting.
You can access most of the anchors from above, but beware of getting down to some of the lower ones. There are some trees, and even an extra bolt, to create tethers to access some of the lower anchors to set up top ropes.
Getting There
Turn off of hwy 26 in between Government Camp and the spit of 26/35, onto forest road 2656. There will be signs for Trillium Lake Campground and Day Use areas. Drive to the end of the road, where you will reach the Day Use Parking Area. Hike on the Trillium Lake Trail North, around the lake. Near the Northeast corner of the lake, when you're near the marshy area, look for a climber's trail to your right. Take that for 5-10 minutes and you will see the crag.
[Hide Photo] Approach trail. The first wall is at the marker. The climbs are on the WNW aspect of the butte—various sources mark them elsewhere.
[Hide Photo] All the routes have new bomber anchors!
[Hide Photo] Zone 1. This is the first area you pass as you walk in.
[Hide Photo] Trail to crag starts here off lake loop trail.
[Hide Photo] Climbers trail entrance to Section 1, continue on trial past blue diamond & information signs until you see this Fallen Log Passage, trail leads to Crag.
[Hide Photo] Easy slab route, between zones 1 and 2. There are two sets of anchors. I recommend using the lower set. There are a lot of loose rocks on the way to accessing the higher ones.
[Hide Photo] Zone 2, mid way along the crag. The book lists multiple ratings for these routes, but this is what they felt like to us. There are three more routes lookers left of these two.
[Hide Photo] Cheryl and Samwise returning to the lake trail from the crag
[Hide Comment] I left a big scrub brush on the log bench today. I’ve been cleaning a lot of the routes lately but if anyone climbs here, feel free to use the brush some of the routes.
Sep 5, 2019
[Hide Comment] As of 10/15/19 all anchor bolts have been replaced with 1/2in stainless steel bolts, hangers and rap rings. There’s still a few rusty lead bolts I’m going to replace but I might have to wait til spring. Thanks to the Portland Area Climbers Collation and the ASCA for donating the hardware.
Oct 16, 2019
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the info guys! I have heard of this place for awhile, been wanting to visit. Going once or twice this coming week. This was very helpful. FYI - The digital guidebook that is linked to this crag, doesn't include this crag ... at least I couldn't find it.
Jul 14, 2020
[Hide Comment] Fun little crag that deserves more attention from the outdoor beginners crowd to disperse the pileups at French's Dome, Bulo Point, and Salmon River Slab. The climbing is more like Coethedral than any other regional crag in that the features resemble large nubbins as opposed to angular, blocky edges.
If you're feeling extra adventurous and want to save yourself the driving time and parking shenanigans associated with the day use area, follow directions below:
Drive past the sno-park and head downhill. Stop at the first pullout on the right at the bottom of the hill, or continue slightly further and find shoulder parking before the next incline. Hike along the bike trail and/or cutoff SW from the road. 400' from the trail you will encounter Section 4.
Aug 17, 2020
[Hide Comment] We weren't able to find the "400' from the trail to Section 4" approach that Nate Ball describes. Like Nate Ball's comment, the forest ranger we talked to said the best approach was from the Trillium Lake Mountain Bike Trail parking, but following the mountain bike trail brought us all the way around the butte on the South side, connected with the Trillium Lake hiking trail, and then North to Section 1. On the way back out we tried following the crag trail North past Section 4, which brought us all the way around the butte on the North side, and then a fork took us down the East side and back to the mountain bike trail. Both approaches were fine, but for a first try I'd just stick with the mountain bike trail because it's obvious, unless someone can provide a better description for how to come in straight from the North.
All that said, the mountain bike trail approach may be closer than starting from the Day Use Area south of the campground. But looking at the map we're thinking there's a better way we weren't able to find ...
Aug 26, 2023
[Hide Comment] Crag has seen better days. Gear is good, bolts, anchors. And the walking is less than 15 min on a great trail. Shade till 1pm on a summers day too. However apart from a few routes the regional, damp climate has wreaked havoc with widespread moss on most routes. This undoubtedly with the rock quality, make such routes dangerous to climb, particularly from rockfall for the belayer.
For the moderate climber (5.5-5.9), there are some routes, maybe 5, in section 2 worth a look. Like most trafficked crags around Hood these are now heavily sandbagged, typically running around 2 grades harder than advertised.
Jul 23, 2024
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La Crescenta, CA
La Crescenta, CA
Oregon City
FYI - The digital guidebook that is linked to this crag, doesn't include this crag ... at least I couldn't find it. Jul 14, 2020
If you're feeling extra adventurous and want to save yourself the driving time and parking shenanigans associated with the day use area, follow directions below:
Drive past the sno-park and head downhill. Stop at the first pullout on the right at the bottom of the hill, or continue slightly further and find shoulder parking before the next incline. Hike along the bike trail and/or cutoff SW from the road. 400' from the trail you will encounter Section 4. Aug 17, 2020
Seattle, WA
Portland, OR
All that said, the mountain bike trail approach may be closer than starting from the Day Use Area south of the campground. But looking at the map we're thinking there's a better way we weren't able to find ... Aug 26, 2023
Lower Hutt, NZ
For the moderate climber (5.5-5.9), there are some routes, maybe 5, in section 2 worth a look. Like most trafficked crags around Hood these are now heavily sandbagged, typically running around 2 grades harder than advertised. Jul 23, 2024