Elevation: 64 ft
GPS: 44.473, -63.705 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,335 total · 39/month
Shared By: Nathan Benjamin on Jul 13, 2018
Admins: Greg Hughes, Will Bland

Description

This would be Nova Scotia's premiere hard trad climbing crag if it weren't such a challenge to access. Previously the cliff was accessed by boat by launching at the government wharf at the end of Terrance Bay Wharf Road. Recent trail development spear headed by Brad Redden, Lynette Reid, and Climb Nova Scotia has opened new land access. The hike is about 1.5 hours though, so this crag will remain an underpopulated gem.

The cliff faces West South West and sees sun only in the afternoon. It's location on the ocean means that it can be cooler here than in land, but trees at the base of the cliff provide some shelter. All of this makes this cliff great for spring to fall climbing. The cracks here are inspiring to say the least, and it is a must clime destination for any trad leader comfortable with 5.10, and an absolute playground for the rare 5.11 trad hermit. The cliff is rather consistently overhung just 10 or 15 degrees, making it deceptively pumpy. Good jams and a few jugs offer the pumped forearms some respite. However even if you fall apart and whip the gear on most of the climbs is very good, with lots of options.

Many of the climbs here have been outfitted with rings, however if you plan to top rope you will need a lot of static line for many of the climbs. The rock is very sharp so build your anchors appropriately. Ultimately this cliff can accommodate top roping, but the anchors are challenging.

Getting There

Previously the cliff was accessed by boat by launching at the government wharf at the end of Terrance Bay Wharf Road. Recent trail development spear headed by Brad Redden, Lynette Reid, and Climb Nova Scotia has opened new land access. The hike is about 1.5 hours though, so this crag will remain an underpopulated gem.

If you decide to access by water recreational craft can be rented in Halifax at MEC and at The Trail Shop. If you launch at the government wharf the cliff will be obvious across the bay. The best landing site is 100-200 meters left of the left side of the crag.

If you hike then you can park on River Road. There is a small parking area between the road and Little Lake. After parking you will have to backtrack along the road for about 100 meters, looking for an obvious path on your right that enters the bush. Follow this path to the crag by keeping an eye out for the pink flagging tape.

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