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Chezem Cliffs

California > Northwest California

Description

Chezem Cliffs is located in the Redwood Creek valley. Primarily a sport climbing area, the cliffs have an assortment of steep climbs mostly in the 5.10's. The short cliff is nestled in among grasslands as well as old oaks and madrone trees. The cliffs are located just far enough inland to be out of the fog but not too far inland to be scorching in the summer heat, and is at a low enough elevation to get very little, if any, snow in the winter. The main cliff faces southwest but its base is shaded by large trees. The approach from the parking to the cliffs is ~3 min, very short.

The rock has a sandstone quality and the holds are mostly on edges. There have been 2-bolt anchors placed on top of most climbs and it's a short 2nd class scramble to the top of the cliffs to set up top ropes.

The main climbing wall faces south, but there is some climbing potential on the longer west face, although there is quite a bit of vegetation on that wall. Additionally, there are some short steep cliffs that face east that might have some potential for short sport climbs. In addition, there is a short low angle crack on one of the east facing cliffs.

There area some moderately-sized boulders scattered below the base, which hold some potential for steep or overhanging bouldering routes.

Getting There

Chezem Cliffs is located at the intersection of Hwy 299 and the upper end of Chezem Road. This intersection is located 23.4 miles from the Hwy 101/ Hwy 299 intersection (~25 min) or 17.9 miles from the Hwy 299 Blue Lake exit (~20 min).

There is a small parking area on Chezem Road just below the intersection. You can see the dome-like backside of the climbing area just down the grassy hill from the intersection.

Follow deer trails down hill (~1min) until you reach base of dome-like backside of area. Pass ~50 feet along the base of the dome to east side (downhill side) to short use-trail that heads right and uphill immediately between dome and small trees. Head up use trail (~50 feet) and then work your way down and right seeing main cliff face on your right.

The boulders are located immediately downhill of the main cliff face.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approach trail to Chezem Cliffs
[Hide Photo] Approach trail to Chezem Cliffs
Approach trail to Chezem Cliffs
[Hide Photo] Approach trail to Chezem Cliffs
South Face of Chezem Cliffs
[Hide Photo] South Face of Chezem Cliffs
Cadence Brown climbing Black Streak (5.10c) at Chezem Cliffs
[Hide Photo] Cadence Brown climbing Black Streak (5.10c) at Chezem Cliffs
Cadence Brown on Vultures Feather (5.10d) at Chezem Cliff
[Hide Photo] Cadence Brown on Vultures Feather (5.10d) at Chezem Cliff
Cadence Brown on Scorpions Cave (5.9) at Chezem Cliffs
[Hide Photo] Cadence Brown on Scorpions Cave (5.9) at Chezem Cliffs
Parking area for Chezem Cliffs at intersection of Chezem Road and Hwy 299
[Hide Photo] Parking area for Chezem Cliffs at intersection of Chezem Road and Hwy 299

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a very new climbing area that has seen little traffic. Be aware there might be some loose rock and some vegetation still on routes. With more traffic, the climbs should clean up nicely. Jul 6, 2018
[Hide Comment] Fun routes on the same type of sandstone as Strawberry Rock. The routes need a few more hours of scrubbing and a few more flakes broken off, but once cleaned, they will be quite popular. Sep 9, 2018
Ryan Reger
South Lake Tahoe, CA
[Hide Comment] Encountered several young rattlesnakes messing up the easy approach a few months ago. We went left through the meadow and into a small talus field under the crag. Make sure to walk down to the crag on the right (climbers left) side, and be careful! Pretty fun climbing though. Aug 20, 2019
Eric Southard
Arcata, CA
[Hide Comment] Really fun routes, just needs some choss removal. Apr 2, 2021
[Hide Comment] These are great little routes, I didn't find much choss. I did come as close as you can get to getting snake-bit by a juvenile rattler though. Also, I've climbed all over North America for close to 30 years and have never found a crag more tick-infested. These routes are definitely worth the short trip from the coast but beware of the deadly serpents and unbelievably heinous tick population. May 2, 2021