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Plombergstein

International > Europe > Austria > Salzburg

Description

Great single and multi-pitch sport climbing on limestone above the Wolfgangsee.

Getting There

Drive about 40 minutes east of Salzburg to the quaint town of St. Gilgen, on the edge of Wolfgansee (lake). Park in one of two parking lots just above town (coordinates of 47.772898, 13.353812  or 47.772222, 13.352283). DO NOT TRY AND PARK ANY CLOSER TO THE CLIFF THAN THESE PARKING LOTS, AS THIS UPSETS THE LOCAL RESIDENTS.

- From the uphill (northern) parking lot, walk northeast up Reitnerstrasse about 450 yards to a trail on the right with yellow trail signs and a small building (coordinates of 47.776327, 13.357133).

- Leave the paved Reitnerstrasse, and walk northwest on a mostly flat dirt road/trail for roughly 150 yards. A stream and the cliff will be on the right as you walk this dirt/road trail. 

- At some yellow trail signs (coordinates of 47.777563, 13.356296), go down and right off the dirt road/trail and across a stream. On the opposite side of the stream is a trail junction. The left (uphill) trail is marked with red and white blazes and leads to the top. The right (downhill) trail goes along the base of the cliff, paralleling the stream.

- Follow the trail to the right as it traverses under the base of the cliff, looking for bolted routes, which get more difficult and longer as you hike to the right (southeast).

The very first sector you'll encounter, closest to the trail junction, is called the AV Garden and has a dozen or more single pitch sport routes from 5.3 to 5.10.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Clou
Sport 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Edelweiss
Sport 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
● Askulap
Sport 6 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 2
● Flipperl
Sport 5 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 6
● Juniperus
Sport 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
● Leichter Riss
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Clou
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 8 pitches
● Edelweiss
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 6 pitches
● Askulap
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 6 pitches
● Flipperl
 2
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport 5 pitches
● Juniperus
 6
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport 5 pitches
● Leichter Riss
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of Plombergstein from St. Gilgen and the Wolfgangsee nearby. Juniperus shown in yellow
[Hide Photo] View of Plombergstein from St. Gilgen and the Wolfgangsee nearby. Juniperus shown in yellow
The AV Garden sector as viewed from the stream crossing. There are about a dozen decent sport routes on this section of cliff from about 5.3 to 5.10b.
[Hide Photo] The AV Garden sector as viewed from the stream crossing. There are about a dozen decent sport routes on this section of cliff from about 5.3 to 5.10b.
The view of St Gilgen and Wolfgangsee from the cliff.
[Hide Photo] The view of St Gilgen and Wolfgangsee from the cliff.
The left portion of Plombergstein as seen from the approach. The AV Garden is to the left of this section of cliff.
[Hide Photo] The left portion of Plombergstein as seen from the approach. The AV Garden is to the left of this section of cliff.
The spot where you leave the dirt road/trail and cross the stream. The trail to the summit goes up and left; the AV Garden sector is to the right.
[Hide Photo] The spot where you leave the dirt road/trail and cross the stream. The trail to the summit goes up and left; the AV Garden sector is to the right.
The yellow signs and building where you turn off of the paved road onto the dirt road/trail.
[Hide Photo] The yellow signs and building where you turn off of the paved road onto the dirt road/trail.