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Routes in Whiskey Creek Tower

General Jack D. Ripper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land Details

Description

This 100-foot-tall tower is a significant summit in an idyllic setting. The west and north sides range from 100 to 150 feet tall, while the south and east sides are even higher and more overhung. The rock is dolomite, and the vast majority of it has weathered into an extremely jagged and sharp texture. (Imagine millions of 1/2 inch knifeblades pointing out from the rock.)

I (Eli Boardman) made the first ascent of this tower on July 1, 2018, belayed by my dad with photography by my mom. I am 99% sure that I was the first person to visit the summit, as there was no anchor or other sign of human visitation, and descending the tower without leaving an anchor on the summit would be nigh-impossible. Thus, I am confident saying I got the first ascent of the route and the tower itself.

There is no easy way to the top. The east and south faces are wildly overhung but may eventually be climbed on aid. The upper west face is unprotectable. The right side of the north face is where I climbed. The left side of the north face looks like it would support high-quality slab climbing at the 5.13+ level.

I left a tricam and a piton as a summit anchor. This may be improved in the future.

Getting There

Go about 1.75 miles up the Whiskey Mountain Trail, gaining 1,300 vertical feet in the process. You will pass some short cliffs a few feet from the trail about 1.5 miles in. Just above this, look up and to the right to spot the Tower. Leave the trail and bushwhack steeply up through talus and scrub to reach the Tower.

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