Elevation: 3,240 ft
GPS: 44.67, 6.621 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29 total · 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 30, 2018
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
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Description

Mostly easy climbs about 65 ft / 20 meters tall on a slab of puddingstone rock. Sometimes called the "initiation" (for beginners) slab.

. . . (if some members of the party are looking for moderate or harder routes there are several nearby in the difficulty range of Euro sport 5c to 7c, along the hiking approach in sector 7b "El Pouding droite". and many more in the other sectors of this Mont-Dauphin Fort climbing area.

This rock has many different kinds of handholds (sometimes grab a stone embedded in the surface, or often the best are where a embedded stone has gone missing).

NorthWest-facing with trees for shade, so nice in summer, morning thru early afternoon.

Secluded, but some noise from nearby highway.

Well-designed well-beaten (steep) approach trail.

Very slopy base for routes in left half. Keep children, or anything which might roll or slide, tethered.

The 2015 Rolland print guidebook says there are seven bolted lines, but as of 2018 there are only six.

To get more climbing from the same time + effort of setting up, the non-bolted rock between the lines bolted for lead is usually of similar (interesting) quality to the rock with bolts.

Climbs in this sector include:
. . . (left to right) . . .
* ? "LIO" ? "UO" ? (sp) ? (name painted on rock near bottom)
. . . (bolted for leading up to 2-bolt anchor with chain-connection + lower-off quick-link)
. . . (Euro sport grade 5a+, quality *2.5*)
* top-rope between lead bolt lines
. . . (no top anchor specific for this climb.)
. . . (Euro sport grade 4a, quality *2.5*)
* Asylum - (name painted on rock near bottom)
. . . (bolted for leading up to 2-bolt anchor with chain-connection + lower-off quick-link)
. . . (Euro sport grade 4a, quality *2.5*)
* top-rope between lead bolt lines
. . . (no top anchor specific for this climb.)
. . . (Euro sport grade 4c, quality *2.5*)
* Pleasur Dom 
. . . (bolted for leading up to 2-bolt anchor with chain-connection + lower-off quick-link)
. . . (Euro sport grade 5b, quality *3*)
* top-rope between lead bolt lines
. . . (no top anchor specific for this climb).
. . . (Euro sport grade 5c+, quality *2*)
. . . (stay 1-2 meters left of the bolts for Kids).
* Kids 
. . . (bolted for leading up to 2-bolt anchor with chain-connection + lower-off quick-link)
. . . (Euro sport grade 5b, quality *2.5*)
* top-rope between lead bolt lines
. . . (no top anchor specific for this climb.)
. . . (Euro sport grade 4b, quality *2*)
* Top-Sun . (sp?) . (60 ft tall)
. . . (bolted for leading up to 2-bolt anchor with chain-connection + lower-off quick-link)
. . . (Euro sport grade 4b, quality *2.5*)
* Sapin (sp?) . (70ft tall)
. . . (bolted for leading up to 2-bolt anchor with chain-connection + lower-off quick-link)
. . . (Euro sport grade 5a+, quality *2.5*)
* top-rope to right of Sapin . (20 meters / 70ft tall)
. . . (no top anchor specific for this climb.)
. . . (Euro sport grade 6a, quality *2.5* -- should improve with lots of cleaning).
. . . (much loose + breakable rock -- so belayer or other party members should stay far away from under climber).
. . . (Start by 7-inch-thick pine tree 2 meters right from Sapin. Roughly straight up. Pass through right side of bunch of tiny bushes 8 meters / 25 ft up. Finish 1.5-2 meters right of Sapin top anchor.

Getting There

Driving: From the South take highway N94, and about 1 km NE from the roundabout junction with the D902 road which goes SE then E up to the city of Guillestre ... just after passing under the elevated fortress, turn right to find parking lot on E side of highway.
From the North take highway N94, and about 10 km south from the narrow section through the village of La Roche-de-Rame ... just before reaching the elevated fortress, turn left to find parking lot on E side of highway.

Parking : GPS latitude longitude approx (N44.6712 E6.6195).

Hiking: From Parking hike 200 meters roughly S on wide well-beaten trail up to the switchback in the asphalt road which goes up to visit the fortress way up on top of this big hunk of rock. Here turn sharp Left and hike 90 meters NE up on the well-beaten trail. At (N44.6701 E6.6201), leave the main trail and go Right onto steep narrow trail, next 100 meters first rising NE, then sharp turn right SSW steep. At junction go Left 50-70 meters up E (passing under steep bolted routes) to reach the slab at (N44.6700 E6.6212).

- - > See approach trail on Map  

Effort: uphill +115 meters vertical over 0.45 km distance (uphill +375 ft vertical over 0.3 mile distance).
Time typical range 15-30 minutes.

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