Elevation: 12 ft
GPS: 33.594, -117.878 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,852 total · 1,890/month
Shared By: Chris Tuohino on Jun 25, 2018 · Updates
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Bouldering on a picturesque beach in Southern California. What more could you ask for? The climbing here mostly consists of one small area of the beach with a small cliff band and a giant cave (the Pirate's Cove). 95% of the problems are V4 and under with 1 or 2 harder problems thrown in there so it's very beginner friendly although the problems are slightly tall so it will work your mental game even though the landing is on (relatively) soft sand. The beach is often packed so I would definitely go after 5pm on a weekday if you're hoping to do any actual climbing. Climbing is very juggy, pretty sharp, and everything has good landings with the added bonus of it also being sand which provides some cushion but beware you, your clothes, and your crash pad will get covered in sand no matter how hard you try! Also the holds can get pretty slimy being right on the beach and all so your sends will be pretty condition dependent. There is some choss, sand will get in your eyes and also holds break here somewhat often. In addition to the main Pirates's Cove beach area, there are a few boulders on the parking lot side of the hill that have a few problems on them.

Getting There

Type "Corona Del Mar State Beach" into whatever maps app you use. The Pirate's Cove is on the far West Side about as far down Ocean Blvd as you can go. There is free parking to be found on the side streets dotting Ocean Blvd. The entrance to the beach is a downhill road on the SouthWest Side of Ocean Blvd with a sidewalk attached to it. From here if you look straight you'll see a rock formation straight ahead (if you're looking at the bathrooms it's to the right). On the other side of this rock formation is the beach and Pirate's Cove.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Corona Del Mar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 41
Tin Man
Boulder
V1 5
 31
Onion Man
Boulder
V2 5+
 67
Not Even
Boulder
V2 5+
 7
Little Ricky
Trad, Boulder
V2-3 5+
 20
Pin Scar Direct
Boulder
V3- 6A PG13
 26
Not Even Chips (and reverse)
Boulder
V3 6A
 45
Iron Man
Boulder
V3 6A
 35
Italian Fall
Trad, Boulder
V4 6B
 20
Diamond Man
Boulder
V4 6B
 7
Ecto the Collector
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 13
Anabel
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 15
Chips Ahoy
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
Diamond Man Extension
Boulder
V7 7A+
 7
Paper Boy
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
 28
The Hinge
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tin Man Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 41
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Onion Man Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 31
V1 5 Boulder
Not Even Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 67
V2 5+ Boulder
Little Ricky Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 7
V2 5+ Trad, Boulder
Pin Scar Direct Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 20
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Not Even Chips (and reverse) Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 26
V3- 6A PG13 Boulder
Iron Man Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 45
V3 6A Boulder
Italian Fall Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 35
V3 6A Trad, Boulder
Diamond Man Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 20
V4 6B Boulder
Ecto the Collector Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 7
V4 6B Boulder
Anabel Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 13
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Chips Ahoy Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 15
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Diamond Man Extension Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Paper Boy Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 7
V7 7A+ Boulder
The Hinge Pirate's Cove (aka Th…
 28
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4 Boulder
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