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The Earthship

Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Long Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Please take care on the approach not to stray into the resort. DetailsDrop down

Description

The Earthship is a very prominent landmark of West Sedona. The summit looks like a giant red doorknob when driving north on Dry Creek Road near the Devils Bridge turnoff. The whole thing is really more of a massif/cluster than an individual formation. In terms of climbing, the highest point (the doorknob) is technical on all sides, though it is flanked by subsidiary towers that can be scrambled/soloed (all FA'd by John Burcham). There is an unknown rappel route (?) down the lower west side of the formation, starting at the most prominent notch/chimney. 

The east face of the massif hosts a moderate slab route called Maiden Voyage (5.9) as well as the slightly more challenging Cholula Bottle (5.10). The west face hosts the longest all-bolted traverse in Arizona: Conveyor Belt to Conformity (5.10).

Getting There

Park at the Long Canyon trailhead (a series of gravel/dirt pullouts on the west side of the road leading up to the Seven Canyons Golf Resort). Hike the Long Canyon Trail about 10 minutes until a left turn onto Deadman's Pass trail. Head west on Deadman's Pass trail for another 10 minutes until you can cut directly right (northwest) toward the base of the route. Reach the base via a dense network of social trails. The route Maiden Voyage is visible for nearly the entire approach, at times framed nicely above the trail.
Total approach time: about 30 minutes

Alternatively, one can approach from Boynton Canyon trailhead, coming in from the other direction (west) on Deadman's Pass trail. But this approach takes 5-10 minutes longer, and parking is quite a bit more difficult compared to the gravel pullouts for Long Canyon. No reason to do it this way.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
The Cholula Bottle
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 83
Maiden Voyage
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Cholula Bottle
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Maiden Voyage
 83
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The southwest side of The Earthship seen from Boynton Canyon trailhead.
[Hide Photo] The southwest side of The Earthship seen from Boynton Canyon trailhead.
J. Burcham soaks it all in from the summit of The Earthship.
[Hide Photo] J. Burcham soaks it all in from the summit of The Earthship.
Burcham approaches the mighty Earthship massif.
[Hide Photo] Burcham approaches the mighty Earthship massif.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] We got a little off route on the (admittedly very simple) approach. The thing that messed us up was the timing. After hiking for about 15 min we saw a pretty obvious trail on the left, imagining this was Deadmans Pass Trail but without a sign, we took this left. This brought us past the birthing cave and up to a plateau where it became clear we had made a mistake. We were able to walk this plateau north and link back up with the proper approach but it cost us some time and water.

Helpful things that would have assured we didn’t make this mistake would be:
-hike just under 1 mile on long canyon trail (not 10 min)
-talk a left at the sign that clearly marks deadman pass trail.
-maybe more like 5 min on deadman pass trail.
-the social trails heading up to the climbs weren’t too bad.

Hope this helps someone. The climbs were well worth it even with our wrong turn. Apr 24, 2024