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3. Prospect Point
Washington
> Okanogan
> Mazama
> Prospector Crags
Access Issue: Camping for Climbers in Mazama
Details
From the MVC: The Methow Valley Climbers, a chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition, respectfully asks visiting climbers to NOT camp or sleep in your vehicles anywhere along the paved section of Lost River Road or in the Fun Rock parking lot ... Please use a blue bag when on route and take all of your trash home. We thank you for taking responsibility during your visit to help keep climbers in good relations with the local community. Welcome to the valley and safe climbing.
From the USFS: When planning your visit to the Methow Valley, please choose an appropriate campsite and use established toilets, or pack it out in areas without toilets. The roadside pullouts below the Goat Wall and Gate Creek are NOT considered sustainable places to camp due to proximity to the Methow River and lack of toilets. Please see the uploaded map "Camping for Climbers" for campgrounds ($8-12 per night) and low-impact FREE dispersed areas with toilets within a few miles of your favorite crag. Free sites include: Goat Creek and Yellowjacket SnoParks (April-October only), and dispersed sites west of Monument Creek Trailhead.
Description
This sub area is furthest to the right on Prospector Crags and the book is a little ambiguous about where the area starts so I've decided it contains the following routes:
Transformer 5.9 / variation Trans Fat Crack 5.8 / variation Transvestite 5.11a Dry and High 5.10b / variation Euphoria 5.10c Quicksilver Girl 5.10a / variation 11b or 10b/A0 Leland's Eleven 5.11c Fool's Gold 5.11d The Butler Did It 5.11b Golden Boy 5.11d
Past Golden Boy, an exposed class 3 traverse (with handline) will take you to the following:
Point Man 5.10a Sensory Overload 5.9 Beam Me Down, Scotty 5.8
Getting There
Drive West from the Mazama General Store (Lost River Road) until the road turns to gravel. Continue on this road past the "S curves" until an obvious cliff band is seen on the right side of the road with a scree slope below. Park on the left shoulder just W of the clearing where you can see the cliff. If you travel over the single lane bridge (Robinson Creek), you have gone too far. Please drive SLOWLY, this road gets heinously washboarded.
An approach trail is marked by a cairn, and often a sign in box (please use this).
Follow the trail up to the cliff, which will take you between Nugget and Recess walls.