Elevation: 915 ft
GPS: 40.958, -74.743 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,515 total · 139/month
Shared By: kenr on May 18, 2018
Admins: SMarsh

Description

Mostly long slabs with interesting small features to find and use for holds (so not just "friction" slabs like some other locations around USA).
Routes 100 ft or more, facing mainly South. But mostly shaded, so not as hot as might expect on hot days.

Closest sector to Parking, with Interesting routes -- but it's basically a beginner / easy sector -- so if that's not what you're looking for, keep hiking in farther.

A bit noisier than other sectors, because not in the "real hollow".

Top-Roping: To get access to the top of the cliff, can scramble up (steep + slippery) around the left side. Staying close to base of the Smiley Face cliff the whole way is both slippery exposed, so think about scrambling up (or down) where is (still slippery, but) less exposed.
Or it might be easier to angle up the slope to the right of the climbing routes, then turn left to the top.
Can find trees at top which could be used to construct natural anchor using a static line and/or slings.

warning: Because many of the routes in this sector are rather long, if belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of the route (because of "rope stretch"). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Name: The Smiley family supported interesting abundant climbing loved by generations of NJ-PA-NY climbers, above all by permitting (and preserving) technical rock climbing on land which they owned or managed.

warning: Loose rock is still a concern in this sector. Belayer or other members of party should not stand anywhere near underneath the climber or underneath a leader setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There

In the first cluster of sectors from Parking, just right from sector Smiley Face.

- - > See this Photo

From N end of parking (N40.9560 W74.7371) by end of Cranberry Lake, walk N flat about 1050 feet, soon crossing the asphalt North Shore Rd, onto 4-6 ft wide dirt path of Sussex Rail Trail to (N40.9591 W74.7388). Turn Left (W) onto hiking trail marked with green plastic squares. A little up then down into the first "pre-hollow", for about 1250 feet past some ponds with some ups and downs. Just before reaching the steep uphill section. Look up right (N) to see the Smiley crag. 20 ft after passing a broken crossed-branches tree [see Photo] just above right of the trail, leave trail to Right. Walk up diagonal left toward the base of the vague ridge which forms the border between the steeper West-facing rock and the gentler South-facing rock.

Next for climbs starting by the "big slanting roof", continue up trending slightly left with some scrambling and soon reach the platform / alcove below the slanting roof (N40.9576 W74.7428). For the other routes, turn Right and follow the track up Right to the bench / platform near the base of your desired climb.

Effort: +125 vertical feet uphill over 0.55 mile distance. Typical hiking time 12-24 minutes.

12 Total Climbs

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