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Band M Rock

New Hampshire > WM: Albany Area > Band M
Warning Access Issue: 1. Fall 2024 DetailsDrop down

Description

The routes on the cliff

Getting There

See the main Band M page

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
● Black Streak
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
● B3SR
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
● Mister T Starter Kit
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
● Hercules
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
● Over Done
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
● Butcher Block
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
● Finally Dunn
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
● The Understatement
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
● Doggie-Style
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
● Way Radical
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
● The Interrogator
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 5
● Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
● Heavy Weather Sailing
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 1
● Malt Therapy
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 1
● Jungle Work
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 1
● Machina Ex Deus
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
● [Redacted]
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
● Bandit
Trad
A3
 1
● General Hospital
Aid
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
● If Dogs Run Free
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Ermite
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Animal Crackers
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Black Streak
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
● B3SR
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Mister T Starter Kit
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Hercules
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Over Done
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Butcher Block
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
● Finally Dunn
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● The Understatement
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Doggie-Style
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Way Radical
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● The Interrogator
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Standard Route
 5
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
● Heavy Weather Sailing
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 2 pitches
● Malt Therapy
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
● Jungle Work
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
● Machina Ex Deus
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● [Redacted]
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Bandit
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● General Hospital
 1
A3 Aid
● If Dogs Run Free
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Ermite
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Animal Crackers
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overdone 10.a on gear ( classic )
[Hide Photo] Overdone 10.a on gear ( classic )

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jim.dangle

[Hide Comment] What’s the policy on bolting here now? Looks like a potential for sport/mixed routes. There are a lot of bolts up there but a lot of them look nasty. Aug 22, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] Replacement of old bolts, and/or improving/placing solid anchors instead of using trees at the top should not be an issue. I'm not sure if the rock itself is private land or Nat. Forest. If it's Nat. Forest, technically battery-powered drills are not allowed.

As for new routes / pvt or Nat. Forest... check with Friends of the Ledges. They had a lot to do with opening the cliff after years of closure and spoke with the land owners. It's an out-of-the-way-seldom-visited cliff with limited parking (5-6 cars) and that parking is relatively "adjacent" to a motel and houses. I'm sure no one wants it turned into another Rumney (not that there's anything wrong with Rumney, it's just that the facilities HERE are way more limited.) Aug 22, 2018
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] Robert, Nat Forest management does not preclude the use off power drills. That would be particular to an area designation and management plan, such as Wilderness areas. Aug 22, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] Thanks Mark....I thought regular Nat Forest was "no power" , with Wilderness areas being "no fixed gear" at all. Thanks for the correction Aug 24, 2018
Steven Cooney
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] Hi Mark and Robert.
I think the confusion with bolting is due to National Park Service policies and Wilderness policies overlap which includes nailing of aid routes, maintenance of current routes, and new routing in both National Park and designated wilderness areas. It is an interesting topic when it comes to usability, governance and oversight and in particular new routing of sport climbs which is roughly stated as being incompatible with designated wilderness areas. I always have to go back and re-read when it comes to National Forest vs. Wilderness vs. National Park. Jun 13, 2020
Ryan DeLena
Sudbury MA / Lyndon VT
[Hide Comment] Anyone know the name of that overhung bolted route to the right of The Understatement? Jun 1, 2021
Aunt Patty
Fryeburg, ME
[Hide Comment] Doggie Style, 11a Jun 1, 2021