Elevation: 885 ft
GPS: 43.951, -71.169 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,592 total · 171/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on May 12, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Access Issue: Access now starts on Rt 16 by Tangelwood Motel, not on Rt 113 Details

Description

The routes on the cliff

Getting There

See the main Band M page

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Band M Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Band M Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
If Dogs Run Free
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Hercules
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
If Dogs Run Free
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Hercules
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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jim.dangle    
What’s the policy on bolting here now? Looks like a potential for sport/mixed routes. There are a lot of bolts up there but a lot of them look nasty. Aug 22, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Replacement of old bolts, and/or improving/placing solid anchors instead of using trees at the top should not be an issue. I'm not sure if the rock itself is private land or Nat. Forest. If it's Nat. Forest, technically battery-powered drills are not allowed.

As for new routes / pvt or Nat. Forest... check with Friends of the Ledges. They had a lot to do with opening the cliff after years of closure and spoke with the land owners. It's an out-of-the-way-seldom-visited cliff with limited parking (5-6 cars) and that parking is relatively "adjacent" to a motel and houses. I'm sure no one wants it turned into another Rumney (not that there's anything wrong with Rumney, it's just that the facilities HERE are way more limited.) Aug 22, 2018
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Robert, Nat Forest management does not preclude the use off power drills. That would be particular to an area designation and management plan, such as Wilderness areas. Aug 22, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Thanks Mark....I thought regular Nat Forest was "no power" , with Wilderness areas being "no fixed gear" at all. Thanks for the correction Aug 24, 2018