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Upper Tier

N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Eagle Rock
Warning Access Issue: Parking lot closed DetailsDrop down
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Description

The Upper Tier of Eagle Rock, named for the obvious overhanging feature, was long known more as a weekend hangout and drinking spot than a climbing location, and local rowdies often had the place to themselves. However climbing has been going on for a long time. Beerchucker's Layback was used by local college rock climbing classes at least as early as the late seventies, and the Eagle's beak was used for free rappels by just about anybody with a rope. Other routes on obvious lines like Bittersweet Retreat and Too Short to Start were probably established around that time as well. More development came in the late eighties when the Lower Tier was noticed and additional routes began to added in both areas.

The rock is high quality Henderson Gneiss, just as at other Rumbling Bald locations. Although the Upper Tier at Eagle Rock is small, with only about a dozen routes plus some boulders, there is a nice range of variety in the cracks and faces. The routes are short but several are easily top roped if desired. This can make for a fun day in a beautiful location with a fabulous view of Lake Lure and distant peaks in the Blue Ridge. Inclusion in the Park has cut down visits from partiers, and rebolting work by the CCC has renewed some of the old routes. It is worth a day's visit. Combined with the other Eagle Rock sub-areas, several days of good climbing can be found in the Eagle Rock area.

Getting There

Soon

Routes from Left to Right

V1-2 5
 1
Passage
Boulder
V0 4
 1
The Sign
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 1
Double Jam
Boulder
V0 4
 1
Side Trip
Boulder
V1 5
 2
Side Trip extension
Boulder
V1 5
 1
Scratch the Itch
Boulder
V0 4
 1
Alcoa Karma
Boulder
V0-1 4+
 1
Black Thumb
Boulder
V1 5
 3
Little Politician
Boulder
V2 5+
 1
Golden Hour
Boulder
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 0
Bittersweet Retreat
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Too Short to Start
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
Shiloh
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 8
Beerchuckers Layback
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 0
Roof Traverse
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
The Eagle Has Landed
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Rachel's Tears
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
A Boy Named Trad
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Hook Pop, Body Drop And The Biti…
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Useless #8
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 5
Spangled Fritillary
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Doctor's Orders
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Passage
 1
V1-2 5 Boulder
The Sign
 1
V0 4 Boulder
Double Jam
 1
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Side Trip
 1
V0 4 Boulder
Side Trip extension
 2
V1 5 Boulder
Scratch the Itch
 1
V1 5 Boulder
Alcoa Karma
 1
V0 4 Boulder
Black Thumb
 1
V0-1 4+ Boulder
Little Politician
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Golden Hour
 1
V2 5+ Boulder
Bittersweet Retreat
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Too Short to Start
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Shiloh
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Beerchuckers Layback
 8
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Roof Traverse
 0
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Eagle Has Landed
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Rachel's Tears
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Boy Named Trad
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Hook Pop, Body Drop And The…
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Useless #8
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Spangled Fritillary
 5
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Doctor's Orders
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1. Too Short to Start 5.10c
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2. Shiloh 5.13
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3. Beerchuckers Layback 5.9
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4. The Eagle has Landed 5.11
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5. Rachel's Tears 5.9+
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6. A Boy Named Trad 5.10c
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7. Hook, Pop, Body Drop 5.10c
[Hide Photo] 1. Too Short to Start 5.10c 2. Shiloh 5.13 3. Beerchuckers Layback 5.9 4. The Eagle has Landed 5.11 5. Rachel's Tears 5.9+ 6. A Boy Named Trad 5.10c 7. Hook, Pop, Body Drop 5.10c
This is the south face of Eagle Rock's Upper Tier, looking east. Bittersweet Retreat, Too Short to Start, and Shiloh ascend this side.
[Hide Photo] This is the south face of Eagle Rock's Upper Tier, looking east. Bittersweet Retreat, Too Short to Start, and Shiloh ascend this side.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Bielejeski
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] GPS is wrong. Apr 9, 2019
[Hide Comment] Just wondering if it's possible to hike around and set these up as TRs, or if you must lead. Can't tell from the guidebook. Thanks. Feb 23, 2021
Keith Wood
Elko, NV
[Hide Comment] Most of them you can hike up and set them up. I think for Doctor's Orders that might not be possible. You'll probably want someone at the bottom to help you get positioned right. Be careful setting up anything climber's right of Rachel's Tears as few people TR those and the top could be hazardous with loose sticks and whatnot. Have fun. Those routes are all pretty good. Mar 1, 2021