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Sun Tower
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Blanding
> Arch Canyon
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a small tower just northwest of Dream Catcher. It would make a good short addition to a day of climbing Dreamspeaker and/or Dreamcatcher.
There are currently two routes on this. The West Dihedral and the Original route that is the obvious crack on the SE side..
Getting There
Rim Approach: From the turn off south of Blanding onto route 95, drive 19.4 miles (5.2 miles past the valley turn off that leads to the mouth of Arch Canyon) to a road on the right with a large map board and self fee station. Drive 3.1 miles on a car friendly dirt road to good camping area just before where the road has a steep rocky section. Drive up the steep rocky section and for approximately an additional 1/2 mile to a big pull off on the left. From here, walk a 1/2 mile northeast to a wash that leads to the the rim of Arch Canyon and to a view of where the rim juts out towards dreamcatcher and dream speaker towers. Walk along the rim to the north side of where the rim juts out. Not far from the end on the north side, use a fixed 60m rope on a good tree above a wide crack and slab. Rap its length to ledges, and walk down to the skiers right for about a couple of hundred yards and use another fixed line for 100'. Then across to the foot of the tower. A GPS and topo map definitely helps.
Knowing where we were going it took 35 min to get from the car to the base and an hour and 45 min car to car. I'd plan an hour to the base if you are onsighting.
Routes from Left to Right
Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
South Face
|
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
|
●
West Dihedral
|
|
1
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|