Elevation: 79 ft
GPS: 19.725, -79.75 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,358 total · 74/month
Shared By: John Byrnes on Apr 11, 2018
Admins: John Byrnes

Description

This wall is invisible from the road which is why it wasn't previously developed. It faces more East than the other South Side walls, so it goes into the shade first; about 1:30 by March First although it may take 30 minutes for the rock to cool off. It's far enough from the surf to avoid most of the sea spray and it gets baked in the sun every morning. The result is dry crisp edges and excellent friction.

All the routes have low cruxes and high first-bolts, so you'll need a 9-10' (3m) clipstick.  The routes are characterized by square-edges, tufas and pockets with distinct (and usually short) cruxes.  Have fun!  

Getting There

Located .8km East of Love Shack, or .7km (.5 miles) East of Bluff View. Drive or walk past Bluff View to a blue house on the sea-side of the road and start counting power poles. The fourth pole has a small Silver Thatch palm growing next to it. Park there. From the palm tree, look across the road at about 10 O'clock to see the "arch" in the trees, marked by some pale blue fisherman's cord. This is the trailhead. Follow the trail to the cliff, turn right and scramble about 20m to the wall. The Nose is the first route you'll come to.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Valentines Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Black Hole
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Free Snakin' and Drawless
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Date-less on Valentines Day
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Hole
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Free Snakin' and Drawless
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Date-less on Valentines Day
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Valentines Wall »

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