Elevation: 12,943 ft
GPS: 19.115, -98.648 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,334 total · 27/month
Shared By: Matt Hooper on Apr 7, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

Description

High altitude climbing with almost nothing mapped yet. Inside of the national park there is great potential here to be explored. All route run thru the welcome center.

Getting There

Paso de Cortes / La Joya:

The mountain has multiple points of entry but the most recommended is the entrance through "Paso de Cortes". There you'll find a visitor center and registration hut. The hut has a large model of the mountain with the different climbing routes painted on it for reference. There is also a small bathroom (5 pesos) and some informational graphics. 

In order to enter the park you'll need to register yourself. The registration form will ask you for your name, emergency contact information, what route you'll be taking, if and where you'll be sleeping, and your departure date. The cost is currently (Nov 2020) 36 pesos per day per person. Once you pay your registration you'll be given a paper bracelet that you are to keep the duration of your stay. 

After finishing registration you can either drive or walk up to "La pluma" which is a small hut with a lift arm barrier where another person checks that you have your bracelet before letting you through. From there you follow the very clear dirt road 8km (1.5-2 hours walking) up to "La Joya". La Joya a parking lot with a couple of food stands and a small portapotty. 

The trail to start going up the normal "Portillos" route is very clearly marked and easy to follow. You might be stopped and interviewed at the start of it by the Search and Rescue folks of Socorro Alpino who have a small hut at the start of the trail. They will sometimes ask you for your itinerary in order to keep tabs on who is up on the mountain. 

Transportation Options from Mexico City:

Car - Car rentals are probably the most comfortable and recommened if you can afford it. The road up to La Joya not paved but is pretty well maintained and can be used by small and low cars. You might have to ask passengers to get off on a couple of spots if the car is too heavy but it is nothing serious. 

Bus/Taxi - There are two bus companies which depart from TAPO (Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente), Volcanes and Sur. They leave every 15-30 minutes starting at 5am. You can find the most updated information on these bus schedules on autobusesmexico.com. The fare is 35 pesos from TAPO to Amecameca Centro. 

The bus stop is a couple of blocks from the central square where you can hire taxis to get you up to Paso de Cortes. 300 pesos is a normal fare for a one way trip. It is an extra 150 pesos if you want to get dropped off at La Joya. There are plenty of taxis who wait for clients at the central square so you shouldn't have an issue finding the right person.

I recommend Nacho. He is a trustworthy and super nice taxi driver who lives in Amecameca and is used to driving climbers up to Izta: +52 1 55 1728 2923. You can also ask that he come back for you when you return. You are able to get enough reception from "Refugio de los 100" to text him on your way down. The times that I have done this I waited to pay him the day that he came back to avoid possible issues. 

Worst case scenario, I have also had luck hitching rides from La Joya to Paso de Cortes or even Mexico City at times. I will usually start walking down to Paso de Cortes and try and hitch a ride when cars pass by. If you are only able to hitch a ride to Amecameca, the last bus to TAPO (Mexico City) departs at 10:30pm.

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