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Routes in Nueva Esperanza

Already Home S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
And Yet it Moves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ditch the Beans S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elusiveness of Balance, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Embrace the Suck S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firstest with the Mostest S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
God Helmet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Humble Doubt S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Fuerza (The Force) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Way, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nearest Nothing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nevada Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh, to be young S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smile, Breathe and Go Slowly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Storm Trooper (incomplete project) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
They tried to bury us, not realizing we were seeds! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Time Value of Time, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wabi-Sabi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What if! S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
You're My Boy Blue! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details


A cliff with some fantastic moderates and some remaining potential. The rock quality is very high and the trail is easy to follow as it is the well established Mary Jane Falls hike. This is a beautiful area with a perfect view down Kyle Canyon and up to the peak of Mt. Charleston. It is nicely situated about 2 minutes off the Mary Jane Falls trail, but it is perfectly hidden and quiet.

The challenge with this wall is deciding when to climb there. It faces due south and is very sunny.  It is best very early in the morning during the summer, or all day when it is below 85 degrees in the valley (and you are in Red Rock). The best day I have had here was on New Years Eve (when it was about 70 in the valley).  The 65-85 degree window is ideal here (temps in Las Vegas, not on the mountain).  March and April tend to yield excellent conditions as does the fall.   Perhaps it will be a welcome escape in the Spring/Fall compared to waiting in lines at Red Rock. In the summer, the central slab gets sun by 9:30am and does not go back into shade until 4:30pm. The right wall stays in shade until about 11am. The 3 routes on the left wall get shade from the big pine tree and are pretty much always shaded. 

Getting There

Follow the Mary Jane Falls trail and continue up the switch backs for that hike until a switch back near the top that cuts left and has very big pine tree at the turn. At the tree, there is a faint trail going straight (instead of switching back to the left). Just passed the pine (a few feet) a nice flat rock that forms a bench. This is your clue that you are at the correct switch back...walk forward for 200ish feet (crossing a bit of a loose section) and you are at the cliff with the first 2 routes behind a big pine...the rest are up and around the corner.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nueva Esperanza

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
A great moderate crag with a ton of options! Was lovely (even a little warm) here first weekend of April. Apr 7, 2018

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