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Routes in Nueva Esperanza

Already Home S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
And Yet it Moves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ditch the Beans S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elusiveness of Balance, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Embrace the Suck S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firstest with the Mostest S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
God Helmet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Humble Doubt S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Fuerza (The Force) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Middle Way (Top Rope), The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nearest Nothing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nevada Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oh, to be young S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smile, Breathe and Go Slowly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Storm Trooper (incomplete project) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
They tried to bury us, not realizing we were seeds! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Time Value of Time, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wabi-Sabi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What if! S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
You're My Boy Blue! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 8,481 ft
GPS: 36.275, -115.67 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,254 total · 810/month
Shared By: dnoB ekiM on Mar 26, 2018
Admins: Justin Johnsen
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

A cliff with some fantastic moderates and some remaining potential. The rock quality is very high and the trail is easy to follow as it is the well established Mary Jane Falls hike. This is a beautiful area with a perfect view down Kyle Canyon and up to the peak of Mt. Charleston. It is nicely situated about 2 minutes off the Mary Jane Falls trail, but it is perfectly hidden and quiet.

The challenge with this wall is deciding when to climb there. It faces due south and is very sunny.  It is best very early in the morning during the summer, or all day when it is below 85 degrees in the valley (and you are in Red Rock). The best day I have had here was on New Years Eve (when it was about 70 in the valley).  The 65-85 degree window is ideal here (temps in Las Vegas, not on the mountain).  March and April tend to yield excellent conditions as does the fall.   Perhaps it will be a welcome escape in the Spring/Fall compared to waiting in lines at Red Rock. In the summer, the central slab gets sun by 9:30am and does not go back into shade until 4:30pm. The right wall stays in shade until about 11am. The 3 routes on the left wall get shade from the big pine tree and are pretty much always shaded. 

Getting There

Follow the Mary Jane Falls trail and continue up the switch backs for that hike until a switch back near the top that cuts left and has very big pine tree at the turn. At the tree, there is a faint trail going straight (instead of switching back to the left). Just passed the pine (a few feet)...is a nice flat rock that forms a bench. This is your clue that you are at the correct switch back...walk forward for 200ish feet (crossing a bit of a loose section) and you are at the cliff with the first 2 routes behind a big pine...the rest are up and around the corner.

MAP Beta: google.com/maps/d/u/1/edit?…

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Nueva Esperanza

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
Firstest with the Mostest
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Already Home
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
What if!
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
And Yet it Moves
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
The Time Value of Time
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Smile, Breathe and Go Slowly
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Oh, to be young
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
God Helmet
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
They tried to bury us, not reali…
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
You're My Boy Blue!
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
The Elusiveness of Balance
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Nevada Rain
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Ditch the Beans
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
La Fuerza (The Force)
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Embrace the Suck
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Firstest with the Mostest
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Already Home
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
What if!
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
And Yet it Moves
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Time Value of Time
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Smile, Breathe and Go Slowly
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Oh, to be young
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
God Helmet
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
They tried to bury us, not…
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
You're My Boy Blue!
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Elusiveness of Balance
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Nevada Rain
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ditch the Beans
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
La Fuerza (The Force)
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Embrace the Suck
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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Photos

Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
Michael Kimm   Denver, CO
A great moderate crag with a ton of options! Was lovely (even a little warm) here first weekend of April. Apr 7, 2018
michelle w
las vegas, nv
michelle w   las vegas, nv
Thank you for bolting some easier climbs at MT Charleston! The climbs are really fun! May 7, 2018
Don't forget your helmet. Wind, chipmunks, and climbers were constantly kicking down loose rocks/pebbles. May 9, 2018
We counted the turn off for the crag from the MJ falls trail is on the 8th switchback. May 9, 2018

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