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Routes in The Castle

Crujida Fria T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crujida Puta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Crujida de la Reina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper South Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A1-2
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Elevation: 9,615 ft
GPS: 35.218, -106.458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 503 total · 110/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Mar 4, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details

Description

The Castle is a prominent rib off of the ridge that separates the Chimney Canyon complex from Mummy Canyon. The smooth face with two prominent cracks is obvious from the La Luz trail.

Getting There

The Castle forms the right (west) side of the El Tecolote descent gully. Tecolote forms the far North end of Muralla Grande. Tips: Take the Muralla Grande trail down about four switchbacks. From the North point of the 4th switchback (35.21412, -106.45502), go another 100 feet and head straight down hill. Look for a ridge that has a field of small aspens on the left (south) side and pines on the right. The field/meadow comes to a rock point/platform with a view. Go straight down the rocky ridge until you are forced to the right side of the ridge--this really fun ridge scrambling so don't bail off the ridge until you need to (maybe 500 feet down). Stay close to the rocks on the right side of the ridge until you hit the saddle between Tecolote and the Castle. You should be able to see the Mummy formation to the north when you are walking down. Approach time to here is ~35 minutes from the car. The Castle is the obvious detached fin that forms the right side of the gully.

Approach to El Tecolote.

4 Total Climbs

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
From the Tecolote-Castle gully, you can rap in from the shoulder (recommend, see posted photos, 1 35m rap off fixed anchors, maybe bring tat since no one goes here) to get to the Crujida climbs. Or hike farther down around and climb a poorly protected, somewhat bushy 5.2 pitch.
If you're worried about getting lost trying to figure out the Tecolote approach down the ridge that separates Mummy Canyon from Chimney Canyon, you could also go down Chimney Canyon past Muralla and hike up to the base, but it would be longer. Mar 4, 2018

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