Elevation: 2,960 ft
GPS: 37.118, -113.666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,149 total · 224/month
Shared By: edward pinskey on Mar 2, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

A really fun area with a good collection of moderates, a few hard climbs and a few trad climbs. The canyon here is a bit wider than the lower area and a fun place to hang out. Again most of the rock here is really bomber but still has some small suspect nubs and flakes so be aware. All anchors can be accessed on the rim, making TRing easy. Most first bolts are high and a stick clip might be a good idea.

Getting There

From the parking area there are two options, you can follow the wash up past the "Bad Ethics" are and over a chock-stone. After the chock-stone the walls of the canyon are short enough to boulder on. continue upstream until the obvious climbing area is reached. Or you can walk the rim of the canyon a few hundred yards to and do an easy 4th class down climb into the canyon.

11 Total Climbs

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Location: Dark Lands (Mid Canyon) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Dark Lands (Mid Canyon)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Watched by Beans
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Touched by bat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Echolocation
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Pep's boots
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Ebb and Flow
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Encore
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Pink Skies
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Watched by Beans
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Touched by bat
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Echolocation
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pep's boots
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ebb and Flow
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Encore
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pink Skies
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Dark Lands (Mid Canyon) »

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I don't want to diminish your work in any way and please forgive me if I have this wrong. I'm wondering how I should compare this area to others in the region? Trying to understand how 20 to 25 foot routes with 3 or 4 bolts can equate to 3 or 4 stars? Apr 13, 2018
edward pinskey
Bethlehem NH
edward pinskey   Bethlehem NH
Hey I don’t take any offense. It’s by no means a destination, but has some pretty fun routes for their size and in a cool setting. Not really sure what your asking about comparing it to other spots? Just check it out or don’t.... Cove Wash mountain biking is right there, and the area is on blm and has camping which is cool, especially with what’s going on with all the other camping being closed. Sure there is some trash but so did the gap and it was cleaned up. All a work in progress. Maybe we where overzealous with the stars but it’s a darn star, probably not the way to judge a spot. Go and give them one or two stars if you feel that’s what they are worthy of, that’s why the consensus button is there. Apr 13, 2018
I'm sure it's a cool area. Stoked people are getting out and mining the choss.
I hear you on the star thing. Several of my partners are old school and justifiably give people crap about how many stars they give routes on this site.
I hope you're laughing too, because when I'm comparing this area to other 3 and 4 star routes around here, you're telling us this is a Must See Destination!! Apr 13, 2018
edward pinskey
Bethlehem NH
edward pinskey   Bethlehem NH
I would say that it’s definitely some of the most solid sandstone in the St. George area. The routes we rated higher IMO are just as good as “classics” at Black Rocks and The Gap. Check it out sometime if your around. I’d love to hear what you think after climbing. As for the must see destination I think it’s up there with all the other 25-35 foot destinations around here. Tell your old school buddies most of the routes where put up on lead at least ;) haha. Apr 13, 2018