Elevation: 3,635 ft
GPS: -22.196, -44.247 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 100 total · 10/month
Shared By: Raiden on Feb 26, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Amazing overhanging sport climbing - enough said.

One of the steepest crags that I've seen in Brazil, Passa Vinte (aka Gruta de Passa Vinte or simply "P20") is an incredible cliff with routes up to 5.14- and 40 meters long. The routes here were developed with most of them having multiple anchors. For many routes, climbing to the first anchor (L1) is around 12+ while climbing to the second anchor (L2) is 13- and the final anchor (L3) is 13+ or 14-. Almost all of the routes can be done with a 70m rope although a few of the extensions do require a full 80m rope. A 60m rope will suffice for the shorter routes on the left side of the crag and also most routes up to the first anchor. The best routes are in the 5.12 and harder range, however there are some vertical and slabby 5.10s and 5.11s. It is also not uncommon to see people climb the beginning slab on some of the routes (~5.10) and lower down when it gets steep.

I wasn't aware of any guidebook or website that categorized the areas of this crag so I split it into 3 logical areas: Left, Central, and Right. I also added an area called The Boulder which are the routes on the massive block which you stand on for the Left side routes.
The Left side routes are quite a bit shorter and are characterized by bouldery sequences with a lot of sequences and big moves.
The Central routes are the longest (up to 40m) and pumpiest. Most routes here start with a long low-angle slab which ends with a dramatic transition to severely overhanging rock.
The Right side routes are more vertical and require technical crimping.
Route development is active at Passa Vinte with several new moderates being bolted on The Boulder and several new hard routes going in on the Right side in 2017. Note that many routes here have manufactured holds (i.e. drilled pockets).

This is one of the few crags in the area that can be climbed in the rain.

Getting There

The town of Passa-Vinte is located in the state of Minas Gerais just inside the border with the state of Rio de Janeiro.

Navigate to Passa-Vinte and continue driving north out of town on the main road (LMG-815). You will cross a set of train tracks (zero your odometer) as you are nearing the outskirts of town and head up a very steep hill. Continue going up this road for 2.4km past the train tracks where you will pass a large boulder on the right side of the road. Just after this, a dirt road heads up and left; there is a small wooden sign marking this road.
Take this dirt road for 1.25km, heading downhill at the end and reaching a house on the right side of the road. Park on the right side of the road up against a fence. Be sure not to block the owner's driveway and park very close to the fence so you don't block the road.

Walk along the road for a few steps and there is a sign on the left marking the start of the trail. Step through the barbed wire fence and continue along the obvious trail, eventually heading uphill and crossing a small stream. Head up another steep hill and you will arrive at the rightmost routes at Passa Vinte.

0 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Passa Vinte Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments