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Routes in Törlwand

Alte Südwand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Elevation: 6,810 ft
GPS: 47.557, 12.334 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 140 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 28, 2018
Admins: Shawn Heath, Phil Lauffen
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Description

The Törlwand is a short ridge located to the right of the deep cut wind gap pass of the Kleine Törl. Climbing routes are located primarily on the south face above the Gildensteig trail.

With good views, a healthy but not interminable approach, good rock, great position and a single 30m rappel get off, the Törlwand makes for a less crowded option for experiencing the Wilder Kaiser.

Some of the more popular south face routes:

Schiefer Riss Grade 6.
Alte Südwand Grade 3+. The old south face classic.
Direkte Südwand Grade 6-.
Südostwand Grade 5+/A0.

Most all venues will require some supplemental protection to adequately protect between fixed gear placements.

Descent: Traverse east on the summit ridge to a very exposed down climb leading to a ringed rappel anchor. With some fixed protection on this traverse, and, opportunities for protection, it may be prudent to belay this down climb. A single 30m rappel, with some exciting free air, leads to a gully with a trail down to the main Gildensteig trail.

Getting There

From the north, a trail from the Fritz Pflaum Hütte leads to the Kleine Törl.

Approach from the south is more commonly done. Drive on the toll road to the Wochenbrunner Alm parking lot and take the wide road trail to the Gaudeamushütte. From there follow the steep and scrambly Gildensteig trail to the base of the Törlwand. Trail junctions are well marked with signs indicating distance/time.

Allow 2-3 hours for the approach.

Routes on the Törlwand are commonly done in a long day from the car, but, also from any of the local huts as well.

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