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The Castles

Colorado > Gunnison
Warning Access Issue: Wilderness DetailsDrop down

Description

These are high alpine tower summits! There are FAs to be done on unclimbed towers for those with the skills and drive! There are tiny summits to be had!

Getting There

The hike up South Castle Creek for many miles until you are under the Castles proper! It is a slog fest!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Broadhead.
[Hide Photo] The Broadhead.
Breccia formations adjacent to The Castles. Out of season but still tempting.
[Hide Photo] Breccia formations adjacent to The Castles. Out of season but still tempting.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Umph!
[Hide Comment] What type of rock is this? Nov 22, 2020
Jamie Estep
CB, CO & ATX
[Hide Comment] @Umph!

Pretty sure it's part of the volcanic mud formations that you'll find both East and West of Gunnison, something similar to the Dillon Pinnacles at Blue Mesa. If they were granite, or really anything with decent rock, this area would be well developed. Nov 23, 2020
Courtney Scales
Crested Butte, CO
[Hide Comment] This rock is molten ash that burst throught the layer of rhyolite. This created chunks of rhyolite embedded into the molten ash. So this is not a mud flow and is different from any other rock around Gunnison, although it does resemble the Breccia of the surrounding areas such as the Pinnacles near Gunnison. The higher elevation of this formation is an indication that this is of a different origin than the nearby Breccia formations.

Of course, it's not granite, but it's highly climbable. These formations have not been well developed because of the approach and the reputation but not because of the rock type. If the approach was easier, then I am sure they would have been climbed long ago. There is only one final approach to the towers that is not easy to find. It's a long hike into the base camp and then a very steep hike with tricky navigation to the towers base area. So far, there are two good routes that are for the adventurous type that love a navigational and technical climbing adventure. There are lots more summits to be had, but it's not an experience for the faint of heart or the fair weather climber. They Castles are positioned next to Storm Pass at an elevation of approx. 12,000 ft., so weather is always of concern. It's a worthy mini-expedition in a gorgeous wilderness area! Nov 17, 2021
LB Mullin Jr.
Gunnison, CO
[Hide Comment] The route Corona Curve should be listed under The Broadhead as the routes are on two different towers. I have tried to move it, but I can not figure it out. Can someone move it? Nov 20, 2021
Jamie Estep
CB, CO & ATX
[Hide Comment] @Courtney Scales

Do you have any clue about the massive cliff on the West side of Gunnison you can see from everywhere in town? I'm assuming it's something similar and maybe is on private land but was always curious, it's got to be 200 - 300ft. Apr 7, 2022