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Elevation: 1,093 ft
GPS: 43.692, -73.567 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 23, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

Long approach, finicky climate, rough roads...but in the right conditions, incredible ice. Generally, there is ice to climb should you slog out here, but the best lines may be out unless conditions are optimal. According to the original ice explorer, if Power Play is in - really in -, the ice here will be good. I'm not sure how well that holds, but it's something to go by.
There are several excellent lines here, most including a bit of mixed capability to reach the top. While many of these can be top-roped, the means to do so for most of them is ridiculously complex or wearisome; at least one person in the party should be comfortable leading Grade 4 ice and at least M3 mixed.

Getting There

The walk-in takes from 1 1/2 to 2+ hours, depending on which route you expect to climb. Phone reception is NOT available for much of the walk-in, so bring a map and compass.
Drive 9L to north of the Tongue Mountain Range trailhead, turn west (left if you are driving north on 9L) at a large parking area with a marsh to its north. Padanarum Road leads away from this junction; take the first right turn (in the winter, straight ahead is probably a snowmobile route, not plowed) onto Wardsboro Road. Drive several miles over barely maintained road, parking at the most available spot near the cemetery on the right, less than a 1/4 mile from the end of maintenance (i.e. unplowed beyond that point). Do NOT block the road or you may get towed.
Walk through the cemetery or on the outskirts, to a log road slanting down to a brook. The crossing here is usually pretty straightforward. Continue heading generally ENE, clomping through a planted pine grove, making another creek crossing - this one very sketchy - then rising up a long, gentle slope. Slanting up left passes some short, fat ice flows of mediocre height (perhaps 25'); Heading up the notch to the right is a bit steeper but leads more directly to the southernmost ice routes such as Anthem. At the top of this knoll you may spot that route. Most of the ice climbs lie well left and lower than it.

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