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Routes in Upper Walls

Majesty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Elevation: 1,984 ft
GPS: 43.547, -73.947 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 11, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

Roughly speaking, this is the band of cliffs high above the path, which can be seen after about 5 minutes walking ENE of the Waterfall Wall. The left boundary is the wide, dank, near-vertical ravine above the distinctive right-facing Graphite Corner, which lies near creek-level just before the stream bends sharply right away from Crane Mountain's face. Most notable is the prow that forms the skyline up high from the vantages near that stream bend. Its right boundary is less obvious, but for simplicity's sake, the walk-up path runs into a very steep chute that makes a convenient landmark end to it; the only problem with it being what to call the assortment of cliffs right of that gully but left of Caterpillar Cliff. Oh well; Crane defies easy description.
While it is ridiculously far from the car and for the most part ludicrously filthy, this cliff is the one that makes this area so compelling. There's a lot of rock here, a lot of potential.

Getting There

Expect an hour and a half or more to reach the base of this cliff. From the hiker's Trailhead, take the East path along the base of the mountain to the point where it heads steeply uphill - about ten minutes from the parking lot. Break east, staying low, for another five or ten minutes, until it is obvious that the level ground would take you away from the mountain. At this point, bushwhack upslope, angling toward Crane Mountain. You will reach a ridge at the top of a narrow, steep ravine. Drop down and go across that ravine to a level area with good glimpses of Crane's flank, which now faces SE. When the leaves are off, you may notice the distinctive cliffs of the South Corner's Upper Walls far above.
You are now at the summit of "Parallel Ridge", my name for this piece of real estate, which descends moderately to the Waterfall Wall, paralleling the SE flank of Crane (hence the name). Take it ENE and downward, staying on the far side of the drainage between Parallel Ridge and Crane itself. When the going flattens out, you are at the Waterfall Wall area.
Continue along the terrain across the creek from Crane's flank for another 5 minutes past the Waterfall Wall. You should stay close enough to the creek to not lose sight of it, and within that 5 minutes come to a rectangular boulder about the size of a step-van (roughly 3x4x15m). This is the turn for the Laboratory; continue straight on another couple minutes to the point where the stream bends right and heads away from Crane down a small cascade. Cross the stream right at the bend, clamber with difficulty through a vegetated boulder pile to reach the base of a steep, short wall. Walk right to the wall's end, and take a steep uphill path for 100m until almost level with the upper walls, then switchback left to get to the bottom of the cliff.
While it is possible to find rock climbing en route to this area, in general the climbing above is much superior to that below.

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