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Youtlkut Pillars

Oregon > Southwest Oregon

Description

Youtlkut (Yu klut) Pillars is a 180-foot high formation of columnar dacite. Access the top using a very steep scramble trail around the left side (looking up) of the pillars, or easier/longer right side. Bolt anchors without chains have been placed in a short headwall on top which is set back about 6 feet from the edge of the columns. Establishing a topropes requires lots of webbing or cordelette. The pillars receive afternoon sun. They are above 4400 feet so the area is typically snowed in until June or later. The pillars provide for fun but sharp columnar face and crack climbs. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol 2: Umpqua 2007 pages 249-255. Trails in need of repair...bathroom burned down. No-fee camping within the old growth timber across the road from the pillars.

Getting There

From Roseburg take Hwy 138 to Glide, right on Little River Road to Wolf Creek Job Corps. Becomes USFS Road 27 to Lake in the Woods campground. Left on FS 2715, Left on FS 230 to parking below the pillars.
Refer to Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007. map page 250.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
Alley Oop
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Chinquapin
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
3D Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Twin Sister
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
First Date
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Almost Polock
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Double Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Dime
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
Throw it Back
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Cave Route
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Alley Oop
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Chinquapin
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
3D Crack
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, TR
Twin Sister
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
First Date
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Almost Polock
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Double Crack
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Dime
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Throw it Back
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cave Route
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Youtlkut
[Hide Photo] Youtlkut
Chinquapin 5.6
[Hide Photo] Chinquapin 5.6
Left side
[Hide Photo] Left side