Elevation: 4,430 ft
GPS: 34.892, -111.733 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,351 total · 366/month
Shared By: A. Ginger on Dec 26, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

This bite sized sport climbing area is located on the east side of Oak Creek and is in between the Casner Canyon trail and the Grasshopper Point recreation area. Even though this section of the Supai Layer is quite short with routes averaging 4 bolts, it more than makes up for it with exquisite rock, holds, movements, and a short approach. Due to the quite bouldery nature of these climbs, many have been designed to have the first bolt stick clipped. If you don’t own one yourself there are plenty of sticks next to the crag so be sure to bring a roll of tape (of course make sure those tape scraps make it back to the car with you). This crag gets shade until roughly 1:30-2:00pm.

Getting There

If coming from Flagstaff, drive 4.2 miles from the turnoff for Slide Rock State Park (just after crossing the bridge) to a dirt pull off on the right hand side or a gravel pull off on the left with a gate which is the Casner Canyon trailhead.

If coming from Sedona, drive exactly one mile after crossing the Midgley Bridge to a gravel pull off on the right with a gate which is the Casner Canyon trailhead.

Follow the trail past the gate about 30 yards and follow the signs left for Casner Canyon Trail down the hill and to the creek. Once at the creek crossing for the Casner Canyon Trail do not cross here, instead continue walking downstream following social trails next to the creek for about 175 yards or so where you will come to a very obvious pinch in the creek with lots of large sandstone and basalt boulders. Depending on the year there can be logs jammed up here which can aid in crossing, however during normal creek flow there is a way to hop across on boulders starting around the narrowest point of the pinch and working back upstream and to the other side.

Once across the creek follow the cliff band passing a small pool and continue walking for about a 1/6 of a mile (careful of some loose stones in the creek bed). The first grouping of routes you will come to on your left is ‘The Surf’. From The Surf more routes extend down the cliff band for about another 100 yards. Have fun!

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Muscle Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
The Lineup
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Muscle Milk
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Surf’s Up!
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Anchor Arms
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Roid Rage
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 4
Just Another Hunk
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Lineup Surf
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Muscle Milk Beach
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Surf’s Up! Surf
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Anchor Arms Beach
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Roid Rage Beach
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Just Another Hunk Beach
 4
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Muscle Beach »

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Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
Looks awesome Evan. Thanks for all the work and for posting it up. Dec 28, 2017