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Routes in Tasman Glacier Valley

Mount Cook, Linda Glacier T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2 Steep Snow
Elevation: 2,342 ft
GPS: -43.698, 170.163 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 140 total · 36/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Dec 25, 2017
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Description

The primary glacial valley East of Mount Cook, providing access to the Grand Plateau for climbs on Cook, Tasman, Haast, and Dixon.

Getting There

Few climbers hike into the area these days—glacial recession and subsequent erosion of the slopes have made the approach long and somewhat dangerous. Nevertheless, a few parties still walk in each year.

From the Tasman Glacier Car Park at the South end of Tasman Lake, a rough 4x4 road heads North toward Ball Shelter. This road deteriorates significantly over its 5 or so miles to Ball Shelter, eventually becoming a trail on and around the moraine. From the Ball Shelter, it's a full day up to the Plateau Hut. The Haast Hut is no longer in commission and the Haast Ridge is more dangerous and sustained than the Boys Glacier approach, so it's recommended to take the Boys Glacier approach.

From the Ball Shelter, drop down to the Tasman Glacier about 500 vertical feet on loose scree relatively close to the shelter. Work your way North and across the Ball Glacier, gaining the scree field just right of the avalanche debris coming out of a deep gully. Grunt your way up the scree field for the next ~3,000 feet, gaining flatter terrain at 5,250 feet, staying right of the gully the whole time. Follow the lower-angle terrain North to the toe of the Boys Glacier, then follow it West up to a col. Drop down the col to the Northwest and then ascend North to Cinerama Col. From the col, traverse the Grand Plateau to the Plateau Hut on the far side of the Hochsetter Ice Fall.

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