Elevation: 7,289 ft
GPS: 51.342, -115.975 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 450 total · 25/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Dec 1, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Located between Protection Mountain and the west end of Castle Mountain, this amazing and hard to reach valley is home to many high quality multi-pitch ice and mixed routes. And no matter the grade, they are remote and serious undertakings. Furthermore, DO NOT consider climbing in this valley unless avi hazard is low. When avi hazard is low, this place becomes popular, so if you are lucky there will be a trail to follow on the way in.

Getting There

First of all, in good conditions, plan on at least 3-4 hours of relentlessly uphill, strenuous approach. If you are still interested, here’s the beta (it's long but so is the approach).

Park at a large pullout on the south side of 1A, just west of the Protection Valley Campground entrance. Walk back east about 5 min then head north into the Protection Mountain Campground (there is a gated CN driveway directly across the road). Continue through the campground, passing site 53, a cook shelter on your right, and a MAXIMUM 20 speed limit sign, until you reach the power lines., Head east another 100m before turning north into the forest. If no one's been in yet, use your tracking skills! A track has been established, the softer ground is compressed in places, branches broken off trees, etc., but the following might help.

Hike through uphill rolling terrain, crossing several small drainages, and some benches, trending toward the valley proper. Continue steeply up the west edge of the drainage. Eventually you will cross 2 or 3 small drainages and soon you will drop steeply down into the Protection Valley drainage proper. Hike up the drainage for a short way, then cross and begin ascending boulders and talus up to the west end of Castle Mountain. You want to get high enough that you can climb through a couple rock steps and complete a rising traverse north into the valley.

Doing this approach onsite, in the dark, will be exceedingly difficult. If you've never been up there, taking some time to scope out the approach ahead of time will be useful. Eventually, we are hoping to add GPS tracks to this description.

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