Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Castle

Storming the Castle S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Description [Suggest Change]

This is the big slabby cobble stone formation close to the road on the left as you go up Second Left Hand Canyon. "Storming the Castle" follows a gulley feature up the side facing the road. There are more moderate sport climbs on the face around to the left.

Historical note: This was one of, if not the first place that a prolific First Ascentionist in the Wasatch put up a route. Against the council of onlookers, he was determined to do it ground up. He clipped our secondhand drill to a gear loop and headed up into a wide swath of unclimbed cobblestone.

As he was drilling the first bolt about 10' up, the cobble under one of his feet blew and sent him sailing down. We watched terrified as he fell to the end of the leash and it went taught and jerked him. He continued to tumble and slide down to us and fortunately the drill stayed.

We looked up and saw a heavy ass Bosch Bulldog stuck by 1" of embedded drill bit bent downward at a 30 angle to the rock with a leash dangling in the breeze. The leader suffered some scrapes and bruises and a busted gear loop.

With that experience out of the way, he has gone on to establish hundreds of awesome single and multi-pitch routes in the Wasatch and around Utah. . . Primarily in ground-up style.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Close to the road on the left side of the Second Left Hand Canyon road if driving up from hwy 143.

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Castle Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About The Castle

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (6)

All Photos Within The Castle (0)

Most Popular · Newest · Random