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Elevation: 1,982 ft
GPS: 46.672, 6.493 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 35 total, 35/month
Shared By: Jordan K on Nov 15, 2017
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

St Loup is a cliff line about 1/2 a mile long that has a few hundred sport lines on decent limestone from very easy (3c) to very very hard (9a). Routes range from 40 to 140 feet long. Moderate routes tend to be pretty polished due to traffic. Most all well bolted and have anchors.
The guide book that covers it is the Remy brother's "Escalades"

A pretty good online guide is available from CamptoCamp. This covers only about half the crag, and is the north-wester portion of the wall. This guide picks up a hundred feet or so climbers left from the climbers trail that goes to the top and cuts the cliff in two.
https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/102880/fr/le-chaney

Another topo can be found here:
http://clubmontagne.epfl.ch/files/content/sites/clubmontagne/files/Topos%20escalade/Kletterfuehrer.pdf

Getting There

St Loup is located next to the village of Pompaples. If you take the train, the stop to get off at is La Sarraz. From the station it is a 20 min walk to the crag. If coming by car, you can park close by and walk. There is a paved path that runs along the bottom of the cliff line making all areas easily accessible.
There are a few different parking options. At the south-eastern end of the cliff, there is a small hospital with parking nearby.
Otherwise, continue on the main road towards Vallorbe (route 9) until the road makes a kind of "W". In the bend of the second right hand turn, (that is, the bottom left of the "W"), there is a small pull-off with a few parking spots and a green garbage can. Follow the trails through the forest for 5 minutes to get to the top of the cliff. From there, bear right to take a trail down to the base, or find the climber's trail that descends through a break in the cliff -- this is exactly where I put the marker on the locator map. That is the approximate midpoint of the cliff, with sectors on either side going several hundred yards. A climber's trail runs along most of the base of the cliff, with a large paved path following the stream ~100 feet away.
Many routes are named with painted indicators at the bottom, although some are missing or wearing off. The grid bolting can make it hard to find routes in the absence of these painted labels!

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