Elevation: 3,840 ft
GPS: 43.493, -122.664 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 971 total · 66/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Nov 4, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

McKinley Rock is a 350 ft high andesitic dike formation at the top of Steamboat watershed on the Umpqua National Forest.
There are nine establish routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.10b. The rock is very coarse grained providing excellent friction.
For the most part routes are bolted in 1980's style with an average distance between bolts of about 10 feet and 50 m pitches. The two exceptions are Terminator which is a 30 m sport route with an average bolt spacing of about 6 feet, and a traditional crack climb on the first pitch (5.8) of Testosterone Monkey which requires placements from 1 to 4 inches. Note that the first 50 feet can be a little mossy, particularly on Wipeout and Easy Street which are more to the SE.

If this is your first time to McKinley Rock I would recommend beginning on Easy Street Direct, 5.8 or Hang Ten, 5.10a.

Descent: rappel from the register either ~80 ft down the backside (N) and a steep scramble, or a recommended 350 feet in three and a half 30 m rappels down the south side.

Guide Book: Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Umpqua. 2007. Editor: Greg Orton. Publisher: Mtn. 'N Air Books. Available: Ashland Outdoor Store, Ashland; Mountain Provisions, Ashland; While Away Books, Roseburg; Douglas County Trail Guides, Roseburg; Back Country Gear, Eugene.

Getting There

McKinley Rock is roughly 2 hours from Eugene by way of Oakridge to Steamboat Creek, or 1.5 hours from Roseburg by way of the North Umpqua Highway 38 and Steamboat Creek. From Steamboat m.p. 12.8, turn west onto Cedar Creek Road (Forest Service Road 3821) and drive 4.2 miles to the first Y-intersection in the road. Turn right at the Y-intersection, reset your odometer and take the first two waterbars very slowly!! Continue on for 1.6 miles from the Y-intersection to the Long Ridge Trailhead (signed). Follow the Long Ridge Trail 1 mile to McKinley Rock. An alternative to Cedar Creek is to continue Steamboat Creek Road to the next road north (Forest Service Road 3825). Once you reach the ridge top on FS-3825 take the fist right onto FS-3821 and follow it down hill to the Long Ridge Trailhead. From either direction you will see a silver water tank on top the ridge just before you come to the Trailhead.

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