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Main Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in Main Cliff
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Aquatic Redneck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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B.I.B.L.E., The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bring Da Ruckus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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China Rose S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Crystal S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Destiny S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Donkey Slam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ghostface Drilla S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Giant Sloth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Ginger Rude S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Half Sloth-Alligator Half Wolf Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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King Tubby S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Liquid Swords S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Muddy Sloth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Proto Sloth S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Terror Bird S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Terror Wolf: the Howling Undead Warrior S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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This Ragemeter Goes to 11 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 99 ft |
| GPS: | 44.488, -73.249 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 29,925 total · 717/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Fiore on Nov 4, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore |
Access Issue: You must obtain a climbing pass and sign in at the kiosk.
Details
All climbers must get a Rock Point Property Pass via the process described here : rockpointvt.org/visitor-passes. We highly suggest making a donation to the Rock Point Center as part of the process. It will help to mitigate fees incurred by CRAG-VT to ensure access and allow the Rock Point Center to continue to offer their unique property to the general public.
very time that climbers access Lone Rock Point, they must sign in at the kiosk located at the Diocesan offices parking lot and utilize the marked trail to reach the cliff. Please sign out when leaving.
Climbers must abide by closures as indicated on the calendar at the kiosk. CRAG-VT will try to keep you updated via our website, however the Diocese reserves the right to close the property at any time.
The number of climbers is limited to 8 at any given time. Please check in with the register at the kiosk to ensure that there is adequate capacity.
Lone Rock Point is open during daylight hours for climbing.
very time that climbers access Lone Rock Point, they must sign in at the kiosk located at the Diocesan offices parking lot and utilize the marked trail to reach the cliff. Please sign out when leaving.
Climbers must abide by closures as indicated on the calendar at the kiosk. CRAG-VT will try to keep you updated via our website, however the Diocese reserves the right to close the property at any time.
The number of climbers is limited to 8 at any given time. Please check in with the register at the kiosk to ensure that there is adequate capacity.
Lone Rock Point is open during daylight hours for climbing.
Description
Seems like you've read about this place in Climbing Magazine and come to see what all the fuss is about? Lone Rock Point is a mid 5.13 climber's paradise. Well, as long as your idea of paradise involves a lot of variations and the occasional glued hold. Nevertheless, LRP is a gorgeous beautiful limestone cliff that hangs above Lake Champlain just north of Burlington. Quality climbing here starts at 5.12 with a large number of 5.13 variations. A lone 5.14a tops out the sent projects with one unknown project still left. It's worth noting that this area only has one 5.10 and it's hard.
A truly unique New England climbing experience.
Most routes require a stick clip.
Routes from left to right as of 10/4/19:
Ghostface Drilla - 5.13c/d
The B.I.B.L.E. - 5.13c
King Tubby - 5.14a to midpoint anchor
King Tubby Extension - 5.14+ (Project)
Proto Sloth - 5.13b
Giant Sloth - 5.13c
Muddy Sloth - 5.13c
Terror Wolf - 5.13+
Terror Bird - 5.13a/b
Destiny - 5.11a
Crystal - 5.10d
China Rose - 5.13d (more like v9/10)
Ginger Rude - 5.13b (more like v8/9)
Donkey Slam - 5.12a
Aquatic Redneck - 5.12a/b
This Rage Meter Goes to 11 - 5.12c
C.R.E.A.M. (hardware missing)
Bring Da Ruckus - 5.11d/12a
A truly unique New England climbing experience.
Most routes require a stick clip.
Routes from left to right as of 10/4/19:
Ghostface Drilla - 5.13c/d
The B.I.B.L.E. - 5.13c
King Tubby - 5.14a to midpoint anchor
King Tubby Extension - 5.14+ (Project)
Proto Sloth - 5.13b
Giant Sloth - 5.13c
Muddy Sloth - 5.13c
Terror Wolf - 5.13+
Terror Bird - 5.13a/b
Destiny - 5.11a
Crystal - 5.10d
China Rose - 5.13d (more like v9/10)
Ginger Rude - 5.13b (more like v8/9)
Donkey Slam - 5.12a
Aquatic Redneck - 5.12a/b
This Rage Meter Goes to 11 - 5.12c
C.R.E.A.M. (hardware missing)
Bring Da Ruckus - 5.11d/12a
Access
In order to maintain climbing access for many years to come, please follow the following guidelines:
*All climbers must get a Rock Point Property Pass via the process described here: https://www.rockpointvt.org/visitor-passes. CRAG-VT highly suggests making a donation to the Rock Point Center as part of the process. It will help to mitigate fees incurred by CRAG-VT to ensure access and allow the Rock Point Center to continue to offer their unique property to the general public.
*Sign in at the kiosk located at the Diocesan offices parking lot and utilize the marked trail to reach the cliff. Sign out when leaving.
*The number of climbers is limited to 8 at any given time. Please check in with the register at the kiosk to ensure that there is adequate capacity.
*Lone Rock Point is only open during daylight hours for climbing.
*No camping or fires are permitted. Leave no trace.
*Do not add any additional fixed gear to the cliff. This would ruin climber relations with the diocese. Please just climb on what is there for now.
*Abide by closures as indicated on the calendar at the kiosk. CRAG-VT will try to keep you updated via their website, however the Diocese reserves the right to close the property at any time.
Any issues with the process or the property may be directed to info@cragvt.org or the Rock Point liaison, Peter Clark.
More Info:
cragvt.org/rockpoint/
You cooperation is GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!
*All climbers must get a Rock Point Property Pass via the process described here: https://www.rockpointvt.org/visitor-passes. CRAG-VT highly suggests making a donation to the Rock Point Center as part of the process. It will help to mitigate fees incurred by CRAG-VT to ensure access and allow the Rock Point Center to continue to offer their unique property to the general public.
*Sign in at the kiosk located at the Diocesan offices parking lot and utilize the marked trail to reach the cliff. Sign out when leaving.
*The number of climbers is limited to 8 at any given time. Please check in with the register at the kiosk to ensure that there is adequate capacity.
*Lone Rock Point is only open during daylight hours for climbing.
*No camping or fires are permitted. Leave no trace.
*Do not add any additional fixed gear to the cliff. This would ruin climber relations with the diocese. Please just climb on what is there for now.
*Abide by closures as indicated on the calendar at the kiosk. CRAG-VT will try to keep you updated via their website, however the Diocese reserves the right to close the property at any time.
Any issues with the process or the property may be directed to info@cragvt.org or the Rock Point liaison, Peter Clark.
More Info:
cragvt.org/rockpoint/
You cooperation is GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!
Lake Depth
Lake depth/climbs likely to be open
Less than ~95 feet: Everything open
~95 - 97 feet: Everything left of Ragemeter likely open
97 - 99 feet: Everything left of China likely open
99 - 101: Boulder hopping. Good luck.
More than 101 feet: What the hell is happening in Lake Champlain?
Check Lake Depth Here;format=gif&period=31&site_no=04294500
Less than ~95 feet: Everything open
~95 - 97 feet: Everything left of Ragemeter likely open
97 - 99 feet: Everything left of China likely open
99 - 101: Boulder hopping. Good luck.
More than 101 feet: What the hell is happening in Lake Champlain?
Check Lake Depth Here;format=gif&period=31&site_no=04294500
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Routes Mostly Face: West
Sunny Roughly 1pm to 8pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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