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Routes in 1. C U P

Blue Cheese Crumbles TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crumbling Under Pressure T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Evasion TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
West Left Corner/Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Right Crack TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 548 ft
GPS: 41.147, -74.171 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 305 total · 25/month
Shared By: kenr on Oct 12, 2017
Admins: SMarsh
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Description

Large rock about 60 feet high, way out NW from the Tower Wall. On its right side, the middle layer is getting crushed between the big top rock and the big bottom rock. The top rock layer or the right side is detached from the main cliff.

"C U P" = Crumbling Under Pressure.

Good climbs at a wide variety of difficulties.

Longer walk than many sectors, but not a hard walk.

Top-Rope: Access to top of main cliff and top of West face works by scrambling up around Left side. Trees and rocks can be used as natural anchors with static line or long slings.

Access to the top of the right side which is detached from the main cliff is either by climbing pitch 1 of the "Evasion" route, or by scrambling to the top of the main cliff and making a short rappel (perhaps off a large tree branch). Note that there are not many options for natural or Trad anchors on top of the detached rock, so consider using a static line attached to the big tree (or one of its larger branches) on top of the main cliff.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There

From the junction of the Good Book access trail with the Tower Wall Tier trail at about (N41.1452 W74.1667), walk 0.3 mile / 1500 ft gentle WNW then NW until reach a rather large fallen tree blocking the way. Look up right and there it is.

Perhaps this could be reached faster by going NW up the Boulder Road, then NNW toward the Yankee Ramparts.

Careful when going back since it's natural to go lower SW from the Tower Wall Tier trail -- which might be OK as long as you know that's happening, and that you're not going back to the junction of the Tower Wall Tier and Good Book trails.

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