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Jbel Zalagh Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 2,237 ft | 682 m |
| GPS: |
34.10275, -4.97842 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 3,572 total · 40/month | |
| Shared By: | Brett Boles on Oct 10, 2017 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Angelique Brown, TJ Brumme |
Description
Jbel Zalagh is a mountain about 15 minutes drive north from Fes. The climbing here pales in comparison to the areas to the north (Akchour) and the infinite amount of rock to the south, BUT it isn't terrible. If you are in the area and have some extra time and a desire to get away from the craziness in Fes then this is paradise!
There are about 20-25 sport routes here all on the West side of the mountain (the left side looking from the medina). The anchors vary, some having two bolts and some having just one. All of the bolts are good, and there are also a few bomber pitons scattered in and out. The date and the group that established this area is unknown and some of the routes are hard to read because routes were placed too close together or bolts were placed haphazardly. The routes vary in length from 10 m to 30 m and in difficulty from 4a-6a+. All rock is less than verticle. Some of the routes haven't been climbed in a good amount of time and so there are bushes and grass growing from cracks and good holds. Buck up and get through 'em.
If you have some trad gear, the CAF (French Alpine Club) did a survey of the North side of Jbel Zalagh in the 80s and thought that there could be upwards of 50 trad routes there. From the small quarry mentioned in the Getting There section you can see the cliffs that they were talking about. I have not gotten any closer to check them out however because I didn't have time.
This area is in the sun all day and it can get very hot. The best time to go would be October through April or just early in the morning during the summer.
IN CONCLUSION: In the climbing desert that is the middle of Morocco beggars can't be choosers. The climbing here isn't stellar but it is climbing!
There are about 20-25 sport routes here all on the West side of the mountain (the left side looking from the medina). The anchors vary, some having two bolts and some having just one. All of the bolts are good, and there are also a few bomber pitons scattered in and out. The date and the group that established this area is unknown and some of the routes are hard to read because routes were placed too close together or bolts were placed haphazardly. The routes vary in length from 10 m to 30 m and in difficulty from 4a-6a+. All rock is less than verticle. Some of the routes haven't been climbed in a good amount of time and so there are bushes and grass growing from cracks and good holds. Buck up and get through 'em.
If you have some trad gear, the CAF (French Alpine Club) did a survey of the North side of Jbel Zalagh in the 80s and thought that there could be upwards of 50 trad routes there. From the small quarry mentioned in the Getting There section you can see the cliffs that they were talking about. I have not gotten any closer to check them out however because I didn't have time.
This area is in the sun all day and it can get very hot. The best time to go would be October through April or just early in the morning during the summer.
IN CONCLUSION: In the climbing desert that is the middle of Morocco beggars can't be choosers. The climbing here isn't stellar but it is climbing!
Getting There
From Bab Guisa it is a 15-20 minute drive to the mountain.If you are driving your own car I believe there is only one road going towards the mountain from Bab Guisa that does two to three switchbacks before going around the left hand side of the mountain. Once you pass that left hand side you should come upon a well on your right hand side with a road going off to the right, that road goes up and over past a few houses to an old quarry (basically just a massive cube of rock that is missing from the side of the mountain) in the side of the mountain. You should be safe to park your car here (but no guarantees!)There is also a path that follows the left hand side of the red hotel and follows a line if eucalyptus over a series of two switch backs to the base of the cliff painted blue. This is the most direct trail. If you don't have a car then you'll have to catch a Grand Taxi, there is a whole parking lot of them waiting near Bab Guisa so just approach one and say "Jbel Zalagh." It should cost about 60 dirham TOTAL not per person. Or, if you want to pay for just one seat, the price is fixed at 10 dirham per person. Make sure you agree on a price before you get in the taxi. The taxi driver will take you to the well that is mentioned above and then you'll hike the road up to the quarry. A warning however, you got a ride there but it's very possible you won't have a ride back. You can wait on the side of the road for a Grand Taxi returning or try and hitch hike OR you can just hoof it back on foot. It's about an hour hike back to Bab Guisa and most of it is downhill. You can walk back on the road, or you can take a dirt road that goes relatively straight back to the medina and is visible from the crag.FROM THE QUARRY:Walk south around the base of the mountain past an old shepherds hut made of stacked rocks down to a grove of trees. The crag is directly above the red hotel d'zalagh!
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