Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

ALways sunny!

abseil off the tree, over a small roof, to reach the common set of anchors at the top of the slab proper. One more 50m rap straight down to the L hand edge of the slab in a gully where there are the 2 starting bolts and a small ledge.

start from the 2 bolts in the gully and traverse the lip of the overhang for immediate exposure via delicate moves then up your chosen route.

From L to R (looking in) - 5.8 crack, 5.9 vague arete, 5.10 takes the brown water streak.

all routes require a couple of small cams for the moves off the anchors.

the 5.8 crack is mostly on gear. The 5.9 is bolted. In addition, the 5.10 needs one red Camelot at the small overlap. All are 50m single pitches.

Exit is via a traverse L from the common anchor and climb a short crack / slab to reappear at the lone tree then best to walk out the usual way as all other options are longer (i have tried them!)

Getting There

2:50hrs via McKennas crag is my record

3 Total Climbs

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Location: Mowgli's Slab Change
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