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Routes in Burg Nanstein

Middle Pinnacle Left TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Middle Pinnacle Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 1,126 ft
GPS: 49.411, 7.585 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 1, 2017
Admins: Shawn Heath
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First this is NOT the castle. Do NOT climb on the castle ruins!
Second, this is NOT a destination. The tallest cliff I found is perhaps 50'.
However, if you are visiting relatives stationed in the largest US military installation in Europe, this is about as close to the base as you can get. In fact, you are as likely to hear American English as you are German in the suburbs surrounding the woods of this nature park overlooking the valley.
The woods next to the castle ruins are riddled with trails; the main one of which runs along about 100m from the steep drop above the town of Landstuhl. There is a fee for touring the castle ruins, but there are several access points to the trail system that circumvent the expense.
Bouldering opportunities lie in sight of or simply beside the trail within 5 minutes of the castle ruins. About fifteen minutes from the ruins, the largest cliff I saw is about 50' tall, riddled with fixed gear and cracks that would take pro, and has at least ten, perhaps a dozen potential lines. A large, easy notch (class 4) divides this formation in two; to climber's right, a narrow, appealing pinnacle appears to offer hard climbing to its top.
I did not get a look, but there may be another suitable outcrop for roped climbing near where the power lines cross the main trail.
The rock is soft, red sandstone, so climbing when wet is a bad idea. The fixed gear ran the gamut from what appeared to be bomber stainless steel rings to rusty angle pitons. A rack, or a good supply of top-roping accoutrements, is recommended.

Getting There

Find Landstuhl (south of Ramstein AFB) and look up the hill for the ruins on the rim. Follow signs for Burg Nanstein, driving circuitous small, typically European roads up to the suburb near the castle, and scout about its outskirts for one of the access points. Failing that, pay the castle fee, wander the trails, find the crags, then take an exit that allows free access next time.
Shortly after leaving the castle along the ridgeline trail, you will pass under power lines. There's a small outcrop below these, but not enough to bother with. Fifteen minutes or so farther along, a clifftop is visible through the open woods to the north. A path leads to the view on top, and herd paths lead along the base of the cliff.
If you come into the suburb, the closest public access comes by taking Pont-a-Moussen Ring and taking it past Finkenweg to park at the end, near a four-way intersection of private or "no-vehicles" roads. Walk down the left road (as you face the 4-way intersection) to a trail junction and turn right. There is a bench beside the trail within 50' of this turn. The cliff is within sight another 5 minutes' walk down the trail. From this point, access is about ten minutes' time.
Here, for those with GPS capability, are the coordinates we recorded for the largest wall: N49° 24.588' 
E007° 35.705' Note that this is in degrees and decimal minutes, not seconds.

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