Elevation: 12,008 ft
GPS: 42.841, -109.333 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,013 total · 89/month
Shared By: Chris Dickson on Sep 28, 2017 with improvements by Doug Hemken
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

Ambush Peak rises out the East Fork Valley as a jagged, distinct peak on the skyline. Undoubtedly eye-catching, it has attracted climbers for over 50 years and was renamed "Ambush" by Fred Beckey after an early ascent in the 60's. 800 feet of slabby granite apron rears back to another 800 feet of steep corners, roofs, and complex terrain leading to a summit. As is often the case in the glacially-carved Winds, the east side of the peak is steep and intimidating, while the backside of the peak is an easy walk-off to the south. The history of ascents on the East Face of Ambush is obscure and mysterious; climbers who venture here value the adventure and you often will think you're climbing a first ascent until you stumble upon an old rusty piton, or a classic "Banditos" homemade bolt hanger. Whether documented or not, most lines on the peak have been climbed, but that won't impact your experiences as fixed anchors are rare. Go out and climb it. It's worth the walk.

Getting There

The shortest approach is from the Big Sandy TH. Begin by taking the Big Sandy trail until you see signs for Dad's Lake (alternatively start at the Stock TH and follow trail to Dad's Lake which saves a half mile). Take a left on the trail junction from the Big Sandy Trail and hike to Dad's Lake, then Marm's Lake, then cross Washakie Creek and follow the trail to Pyramid Lake. From here you can follow a social trail around the backside of Midsummer's Dome and then descend into the East Fork. You'll know Ambush when you see it.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ambush Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
East Chimney/South Face
Trad, Alpine
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
M Buttress
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Ambush Plaisir
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Great Grey Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 3
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Son Of Raid
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Arsenault-Bouchard
Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Chimney/South Face
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
M Buttress
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Ambush Plaisir
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Great Grey Book
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Son Of Raid
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Arsenault-Bouchard
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Ambush Peak »

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