Elevation: 7,820 ft
GPS: 32.428, -110.749 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,556 total · 360/month
Shared By: Justin Headley on Sep 2, 2017 with improvements by Caverdude O'Cicero
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Sloth Slab is an upper-mountain beginner area. Most of the routes are 5.6 or less. I've witnessed many times how the typical 5.6-5.7 Mount Lemmon beginner route can be too difficult or intimidating for a brand-new climber, so I made this area. All the routes are bolted well, so it's a good place for first leads. Still, the cliff's low angle would make any lead fall unpleasant. The rock face itself starts out low-angle and slabby, but some routes actually go through a juggy and near-vertical section. Some anchors can be reached by scrambling to the top of the wall (there is no trail), but honestly it's easier and safer to just lead up a climb. The wall is west-facing, so it goes into the sun at about 11am. Most of the routes that are around the black-stained gully (which is Rocky Road - 5.3) start on the belay ledge about 15 feet up, where two,  two-bolt-anchors exist. On those routes, a 60 meter rope will NOT reach if you belay from the ground. You can anchor into one of the 2-bolt belays if you really want to, but it's mostly there just so people have a safe place to practice anchor building and cleaning.

**** 70M rope recommended **** Tie a knot in the end of your rope ****

Almost all routes have lower-off hooks or biners at the anchors. You're welcome to lower off them AFTER you've finished climbing, but please toprope off your own gear. The one route that has more traditional chain anchors is "Pleistocene Megafauna", and that was done so people can practice cleaning and rappelling off of the older style of anchors. 

Getting There

Drive up Mount Lemmon Highway and turn left at Inspiration Rock (MP 23). Take another immediate left and drive east up a winding dirt road (607) for a few minutes. When the road gets level again, there will be a road intersection and a mulchy parking area on the left. Park here. Walk south down the intersecting road for just 2 or 3 minutes and turn right the first chance you get. You'll be going up a steep driveway to a cabin, so be respectful. The start of the trail should be right in front of you, and it cuts right through the middle of some dense vegetation. Follow this trail down the hill (west), more or less following power lines. Eventually the trail turns left (south), and puts you out near the top of a cliff. This is a different sport climbing area (Marylyn's Mansion). Keep hiking south (and slightly downhill) for another 5 minutes, following the trail, and you'll find yourself at Sloth Slab. Total approach time 15 minutes.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sloth Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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