Elevation: 7,820 ft
GPS: 32.428, -110.749 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,748 total · 381/month
Shared By: Justin Headley on Sep 2, 2017 with updates from Caverdude O'Cicero
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

Sloth Slab is an upper-mountain beginner area. Most of the routes are 5.6 or less. I've witnessed many times how the typical 5.6-5.7 Mount Lemmon beginner route can be too difficult or intimidating for a brand-new climber, so I made this area. All the routes are bolted well, so it's a good place for first leads. Still, the cliff's low angle would make any lead fall unpleasant. The rock face itself starts out low-angle and slabby, but some routes actually go through a juggy and near-vertical section. Some anchors can be reached by scrambling to the top of the wall (there is no trail), but honestly it's easier and safer to just lead up a climb. The wall is west-facing, so it goes into the sun at about 11am. Most of the routes that are around the black-stained gully (which is Rocky Road - 5.3) start on the belay ledge about 15 feet up, where a two bolt belay exists. On those routes, a 60 meter rope will NOT reach if you belay from the ground. You can anchor into the 2-bolt belay if you really want to, but it's mostly there just so people have a safe place to practice anchor building and cleaning.

**** 70M rope recommended **** Tie a knot in the end of your rope ****

Almost all routes have lower-off hooks or biners at the anchors. You're welcome to lower off them AFTER you've finished climbing, but please toprope off your own gear. The one route that has more traditional chain anchors is "Pleistocene Megafauna", and that was done so people can practice cleaning and rappelling. 

Getting There

Drive up Mount Lemmon Highway and turn left at Inspiration Rock (MP 23). Take another immediate left and drive east up a winding dirt road (607) for a few minutes. When the road gets level again, there will be a road intersection and a mulchy parking area on the left. Park here. Walk south down the intersecting road for just 2 or 3 minutes and turn right the first chance you get. You'll be going up a steep driveway to a cabin, so be respectful. The start of the trail should be right in front of you, and it cuts right through the middle of some dense vegetation. Follow this trail down the hill (west), more or less following power lines. Eventually the trail turns left (south), and puts you out near the top of a cliff. This is a different sport climbing area (Marylyn's Mansion). Keep hiking south (and slightly downhill) for another 5 minutes, following the trail, and you'll find yourself at Sloth Slab. Total approach time 15 minutes.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sloth Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Kemper Brightman   Tucson
Awesome work, Justin! I'm excited to check this place out! Props for having the vision and drive to put up beginner friendly routes that would have been over-looked by most. With this and other recent additions, Lemmon is really becoming a place with something for EVERYONE to climb. Sep 3, 2017
Justin Headley   Tucson
When you graduate from this area, be sure to check out Marylyn's Mansion. They're also well-bolted sport routes, but are mostly in the 5.7-5.9 range. Marylin's Mansion a good place to practice trad, also. Many of the routes can be led mostly on gear. Sep 19, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Way to go Justin. Glad this turned into an area you wanted to develop! Sep 25, 2017
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
Amazing work on this crag! The trail is beautiful, the climbs are enjoyable and well bolted. Nov 27, 2017
Justin Headley   Tucson
Thanks, guys! It means a lot. I've put so much work into this place. I'm so happy to know people enjoy it. Dec 3, 2017
mitchl  
Quite a body of work! Its worth going up there just to use the trail!
Its a good place for beginners and to safely teach some multi-pitch techniques since the intermediate chains provide a great belay area (we didn't have a 70 m rope, so we turned it into a multi-pitch route) Dec 30, 2017
Karen DiFrancesco
Glendale, AZ
Karen DiFrancesco   Glendale, AZ
We climbed a few routes on sloth slab today just want to say thank you to Justin for the work on this slab, beautiful and thoughtful placement of all the equipment. We enjoyed it very much and will be back soon!! Apr 29, 2018
Such on awesome crag Justin!! Great place to bring new climbers and to build lead confidence. Can't wait to get back and get on some new routes that are going up.

PS. Also if anyone by chance finds a black pocket knife at the crag or on the approach, much thanks if you can let me know. May 5, 2018
First time at the Sloth Slab today and it's a great addition to beginner climber areas on the Lemmon! We saw lots of new climbers as well as old crusty ones like me. Thanks for taking the time to build a good trail and avoid the inevitable erosion that would occur without one. I really love the strange geology of this crag. You have smooth slab, rough slab, steep blocky sections and even chicken heads. Great find!! Jun 10, 2018