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Routes in The Wudu Wall

100 Years of Centipedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scorpion Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scorpion Pancakes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Siege of the House Lizards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2
Siege of the House Lizards–Sauramus Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Uyghur Tarts (and Toads) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Viper, The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Elevation: 5,136 ft
GPS: 47.307, 90.007 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 400 total · 27/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Chinese National Park, China borderlands laws Details

Description

High on a bluff overlooking the Small Bell (小钟山)and on the far bank of the Irtysh River is a steep wall of granite that looks very unlike the surrounding domes. This is the Wudu Wall. It offers some of the best cragging in all of Keketuohai. While the area is known for its long multipitch dome climbs, the route character on the Wudu Wall is different: vertical, and sometimes even gently overhung routes from 2-4 pitches high offer some of the finest hard climbing in the park.

The wall always some shaded aspect. The wall is west-facing, so it is a fine place to go and watch Small Bell bake in the summer heat. The wall is a complex formation, unlike many of the monolithic domes in the park. If one area gets some afternoon sun, chances are you can scurry along the base of the wall to find a shaded route.

What's in a name?: The Wudu Wall (translates as "5 Poisons") was named for a poison of legend used in ancient China that was created by putting a toad, scorpion, centipede, snake (a viper), and spider (sometimes swapped out for a lizard or tiger in different legends) into a jar to fight, thus mixing their poisons. More recently, 5 Poisons and pests in general were tropes of the Chinese Communist Party. Early on, Mao declared a campaign for eradicating pests from the countryside, decreeing that citizens must exterminate mosquitoes, sparrows, flies, and rats. Sparrows were replaced by bed bugs after the extermination of sparrows led to infestation of crops and crop failure contributing to China's famine in the 50s. In the modern Party, the 5 Poisons was used as a metaphor for the 5 kinds of corruption the government wanted to stamp out, including bribery, tax evasion, theft of state property, cheating on government contracts, and stealing state economic information. static1.squarespace.com/sta… static1.squarespace.com/sta… find a guidebook for the wall here

Getting There

Getting there is currently a bit of an adventure until some sort of footpath is constructed along the river. You must find a slack area of the Irtysh River and swim a line across to the opposite bank and then track up or downstream to a point at which you can fix climbing ropes across the river as a Tyrolean Traverse. One possible location the slack area just downstream from underneath the formation. You can then walk back upstream to the narrow rapids and set the traverse across the boulders. Once you are underneath the formation, you will need to trend uphill and right into a broad, grassy gully. DO NOT go too far left towards the toe of the formation. You will find lots of steep, dirty terrain, and you will eventually get cliffed out.

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