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The Dark Passenger

New Hampshire > WM: Waterville… > Welch & Dickie… > Dickey Ledge

Description

I have been exploring the region between the Central Tongue and the Dark Side a bit and I turned up some pretty darn pleasant rock. Walking by on the trail you wouldn't know it but this section holds some perfect rock and as at least one route name implies, amazing views!
Seeing as this areas sits sort of, on top of parts of the Dark Side I think the Dark Passenger seems an appropriate name. The Dark Passenger itself is the small wall that sits on the ledge with a couple of hard climbs on it.

Some of the routes start from a comfortable tree ledge. I will mark these routes with an (L). The easiest ledge access is to either climb, Say Nothing (5.5) to a convenient anchor on the right side of the ledge. From the anchor it's an easy step left to be comfortably off belay. Or there is a trail from the base of Say Nothing and Watching Me that skirts the cliff left and then up the gully to the upper routes.

Hiking that trail or rappelling down Say Nothing is the easiest way back to the ground.

Getting There

One reason this section had been overlooked is that there is no obvious approach where you say, "There! I have arrived". But the easiest route to get to is View Finder 5.7, which Starts at the far left end of the Dark Side wall. Basically look for a flake heading up a short wall close to a large tree trunk at the extreme left end of the Dark Side. If you climb View Finder (2 pitches, 200ft) you will end up seeing some of the other rock in the area.

There are a collection of routes that start from a comfortable tree ledge 100+ feet up (these routes are marked with an (L). The easiest way to access that ledge is by climbing Say Nothing 5.5 to its anchor on the right end of the ledge. From that anchor a step to the left should get you comfortably off belay. You can also follow a trail from the base of Say Nothing and Watching Me skirting the cliff left and up a up the gully. This used to be a thrash but its been cleaned up a bit and it's not too bad if you just want to access the upper climbs.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Dark Passenger
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1. Watching You 5.7
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2. Dark Corridor 5.6
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3. Theater of Pain 5.12c
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4. Worlds Collide 5.11+
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5. View Finder 5.7
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6. Watching Me 5.7
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7. Say Nothing 5.5
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8. Escape 5.7
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9.The Way Back 5.8
[Hide Photo] The Dark Passenger 1. Watching You 5.7 2. Dark Corridor 5.6 3. Theater of Pain 5.12c 4. Worlds Collide 5.11+ 5. View Finder 5.7 6. Watching Me 5.7 7. Say Nothing 5.5 8. Escape 5.7 9.The Wa…
The areas at Dickie including The Dark Passenger
[Hide Photo] The areas at Dickie including The Dark Passenger
Alec finishes up Worlds Collide with the slabs in the background
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Photo: Steph Chad
[Hide Photo] Alec finishes up Worlds Collide with the slabs in the background Photo: Steph Chad
Cairn and path to Dark Passenger area
[Hide Photo] Cairn and path to Dark Passenger area
Steph out of the chimney and on to the top. This photo captures some of the magic of this place IMO.
[Hide Photo] Steph out of the chimney and on to the top. This photo captures some of the magic of this place IMO.