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Routes in North Joffre Creek

Mighty Mouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

North Joffre Creek was previously best known for skiing and ice climbing but due to recent route development it is becoming known for some of the best alpine rock on the BC west coast.

Getting There

North Joffre Creek is accessed from a forest road off Hwy 99 between Pemberton and Lillooet. Driving north from Squamish/Whistler, set odometer at the Hwy 99 traffic light for downtown Pemberton. At about 10.6 miles (17 km), the hwy leaves the valley and begins the steep climb up to the Duffey Lake area. At 16.2 miles (26 km) turn left onto a gravel road signed "West Joffre Mainline." This FSR is 1.8 miles (2.9 km) before (south/west of) the Joffre Lakes parking. Drive across a wooden bridge, pass a gravel pit on left, and take the right-most fork at 0.1 mile from Hwy 99. At 0.6 mile (1 km), pass a spur on right (don't take). At 2.0 miles (3.2 km), cross a creek (assume this would be raging in Spring and difficult passage without high clearance) and the road turns 4wd rough. At 2.2 miles (3.5 km) from Hwy 99, turn left onto overgrown spur road (main road switches up right) and park. Mouse’s Tooth (or probably the wall just to climber's left) is visible up the valley from this parking spot.

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Doug Hutchinson
Seattle, WA
Doug Hutchinson   Seattle, WA
Good catch about my typo on pitch numbers. I edited the Mighty Mouse description to correct this.

P7 is a scary lead! I am sure Chris and Nate following this pitch were wondering why we were sketched leading. Truly a different experience for the follower, especially because half my nuts could have been removed by a slight breeze! Aug 13, 2017
Thanks for the TR Doug - it came in handy when Nate and I went up there yesterday. Just a few things to add for others who might be considering the route:

- hiking poles and bug spray were super handy
- the snow bridge collapsed in front of our eyes, so we did a very cold barefoot river crossing
- save some finger size pieces to build belay at top of P4
- P7 (you have it labelled as P6 in your report) felt sketchy. I placed 2x000 C3 and 2X00 C3 along with some micro nuts. I thought it was the hardest pitch of the route, and I generally like/am good at thin slab.
- although the trail is well marked with flagging and cairns, I wouldn't recommend trying to do this in the dark

Beautiful route. Would definitely recommend getting on this. Aug 7, 2017

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