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Routes in Trail Lake Pinnacle AKA Goliath Spire

Behemoth T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Clean Cut T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Larsen Aid Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+
Mini Moses S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pleasant Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spring Fever S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Technicality S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tourist Route T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Wide One, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YTP Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 7,970 ft
GPS: 43.44, -109.545 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,231 total · 195/month
Shared By: Eli Boardman on Jul 14, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder
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Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is an imposing sandstone pinnacle high to the west of the inlet to Trail Lake in the Torrey Creek Valley. It has approximately 50 feet of prominence to its western saddle, but the east and south faces are much larger and complex. The first recorded ascent was on February 21, 1971, by Joe Larsen. It has a summit register that shows a few ascents a year in recent years. There is a double bolt rap anchor with chains on the summit. As far as I can tell, the easiest route to the summit is "Mountaineer's Route," 5.8+.

The majority of climbs are actually on a partially separated buttress on the lower southeast corner of the pinnacle. When hiking up from the road, this small buttress--and its two bolted lines--is the first thing you run into when arriving at the base of the rock. Find the two bolt lines, Spring Fever and Technicality, and then get oriented to find the other routes.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

From U.S. 287 outside Dubois, take C.R. 411 Trail Lake Road to the pullout at the head of Trail Lake. Stay on the road as you pass through the private property on Torrey Lake and Ring Lake. From the pullout at the head of Trail Lake, hike steeply uphill to the west until the pinnacle towers overhead.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trail Lake Pinnacle AKA Goliath Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Mountaineer's Route
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mountaineer's Route
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine
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The real shame in this is that bolts have been added all over this tower when it had been climbed clean for decades! I grew up Torrey Valley at Trail Lake Ranch and can say that decades of climbing occurred prior to me even being raised in that valley. Trevor and Eli: it is great you guys share the passion of climbing, but stop bolting things that are already climbed clean. This is an ongoing issue in the Dubois area (Torrey Valley, Horse Creek, etc). Do your research and stop bolting these classic lines!

It also needs to mentioned that historic Dinwoody Petroglyphs exist all over the sandstone of Torrey Valley and climbing on the sandstone should be avoided!!!! The tower is nice, but please stop climbing on walls were ancient art exists!!! Jan 10, 2018
Eli Boardman
Boulder, CO
Eli Boardman   Boulder, CO
Davin,
Please don't include me in this. I have never put a bolt in rock in my life, but I see no reason not to list these routes on Mountain Project. Maybe you would like to contribute some routes to the database? In case it matters, my family homesteaded the valley 5 generations ago and still own much of the land you drive through to get to this tower. Try not to act like you own the valley or are the expert on the area's history when, in fact, others actually do have ownership and a long history.

I am very aware of the petroglyphs, and it is worth mentioning that a) there are none on this pinnacle and b) most of the good ones are on private property and you can't even go look at them, much less climb anywhere near them. BTW, more exclamation points does not make you more convincing. Jan 10, 2018
Eli, You've included yourself by action. I don't own the valley and have never claimed to nor act like it. No one does. Land is land. Ownership is temporary and superficial. Obviously your sense of ownership has guided your opinion. Your name is included in the route descriptions, maybe we should add you as valley owner too? The Dinwoody petroglyphs are a historical resource and should be mentioned in this area. Other people "owned" that valley long before your "generations" did, hence the historical significance. You live there, so obviously you would know about them. The people accessing this page for beta is the target audience for these comments. How else would they know?

The quality of the petroglyphs on "your" land vs public land is a non issue. They are all worth preservation and caution, and could become an access issue in the future. There are in fact bolts on blocks, walls, and towers of sandstone that have petroglyphs. Climbers tend to wander from what is posted here to the next boulder or cliff in an area. Information of historical sights/heritage sights is required in these places when you post beta so they don't wander too far. Many climbing areas have been the focus of these issues.

I did not recommend you not list routes either!!!!!!!! Oh yeah, thanks for the writing lesson, I'll use fewer exclamation marks! I recommended stopping bolt installation where routes already exist. It is not my duty to add every route climbed prior to the existence of Mountain Project. Fixed gear, slings on the summit of that tower, etc are all good indicators of climbers past. It is good climbing and people should know, but the whole story. Jun 15, 2018

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