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Routes in Trail Lake Pinnacle

Behemoth T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Clean Cut T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Larsen Aid Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+
Mini Moses S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pleasant Surprise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shadow Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spring Fever S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Technicality S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wide One, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YTP Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 7,970 ft
GPS: 43.44, -109.545 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,960 total · 179/month
Shared By: Eli Boardman on Jul 14, 2017
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land Details


Note: This piece of rock is known by several names. Old-time local climbers used to call it "Beck's Tower" (see below). Trevor Bowman wrote a mini-guide for the Dubois area in which he called it "Goliath Spire." Joe Larsen, the first person to record a climb of the tower, called it "Trail Lake Pinnacle" in the original summit register entry. Thus, I use that name for the Mountain Project area.

This is an imposing sandstone pinnacle high to the west of the inlet to Trail Lake in the Torrey Creek Valley. It has approximately 50 feet of prominence to its western saddle, but the east and south faces are much larger and complex. The first recorded ascent was on February 21, 1971, by Joe Larsen. It has a summit register that shows a few ascents a year in recent years. There is a double bolt rap anchor with chains on the summit. As far as I can tell, the easiest route to the summit is "Mountaineer's Route," 5.8+.

The majority of climbs are actually on a partially separated buttress on the lower southeast corner of the pinnacle. When hiking up from the road, this small buttress--and its two bolted lines--is the first thing you run into when arriving at the base of the rock. Find the two bolt lines, Spring Fever and Technicality, and then get oriented to find the other routes.

Getting There

From U.S. 287 outside Dubois, take C.R. 411 Trail Lake Road to the pullout at the head of Trail Lake. Stay on the road as you pass through the private property on Torrey Lake and Ring Lake. From the pullout at the head of Trail Lake, hike steeply uphill to the west until the pinnacle towers overhead.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trail Lake Pinnacle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineer's Route
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mountaineer's Route
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine
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From my climbing journal, Summer of '98. The locals called this "Beck's Tower" after the old homesteader who lived nearby. Bolts were added to the tower, some on existing traditional routes. The history is being sorted out, and bolts will be removed from the older and already climbed pitches. New routes with bolts will remain. The aid portions have all been done clean now (Thanks Eli). The rock tends to be a little soft (as sandstone is), so please climb this tower clean! I will add comments based upon my early notes to individual routes such as the Larson Route, Mountaineers Route, and Clear Cut, etc.

Also be aware of the Dinwoody Petroglyphs in the valley. The tower does not have any, but many of the boulders nearby do. Some of the walls nearby that look like good route climbing also have ancient art. DO NOT CLIMB anywhere that Dinwoody art exists! Jun 27, 2018

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