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Description

Armies of people with minimal alpine climbing experience try to reach the top of the highest peak in non-far-east Europe. As of 2017, the "normal" route starts from the cog railway up from the town of St-Gervais-les-Bains. There are also great (more difficult) routes starting from the Italy side.

Popular routes to the summit of MB from Chamonix include:
  • Les Trois Monts Blancs - 3MB - ("three Mont Blancs", because it crosses Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit along the way to MB).
  • Arete Nord de Dome du Gouter / Grands Mulets glacier - favored by ski mountaineers.

Other high alpine climbing peaks include ...
  • Aiguille de Bionassay - (traverse from Refuge Durier, optional to continue to summit of MB).
  • Dome du Gouter - the not-so-difficult N ridge is esthetic, and often catches the sun just right to be readily identified from all over the Chamonix valley (so once you've climbed it, you can point it out to your partners every time you visit).

On the Italy side are the Aiguille Blanc de Peuterey and the Aiguille Noir de Peuterey.

Getting There

Different access points for different routes:
3MB: from Aiguille du Midi lift and Refuge des Cosmiques hut.
North Ridge of Dome du Gouter or Grands Mulets glacier: from Plan de l'Aiguille lift and Refuge des Grands Mulets hut (or by "animal" ski mountaineers from the MB Tunnel west entrance).
Mont Maudit Kuffner arete: from Pointe Helbronner lift.

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