[Hide Comment] Approach: 45minutes.
Hike to the Knoll Trail sign. Take a right on the Knoll trail.
Walk 5 minutes. Stay on the trail past a flat boulder, past a tree, 100 steps more to a cairned trail on the left. Easy cairns past all of the bouldering. Up the ridge.
Fixed line in good condition. We ascended it, (jumars or microtraxion preferably) vs using it as a handline with the heavy packs.
2 easy raps off the right side of the ledge back to the ground. Nov 28, 2018

[Hide Comment] The Growler, Tickled Pink, and Beelzebub are all really awesome and interesting routes. The Growler is fantastic as a warm up. Great hands, fists, and some offwidth near the top, enough rests if you want them, straight forward to protect. Tickled Pink was sustained and when it looks like it let's off other challenges emerge keeping it interesting. If you are into offwidth, Beelzebub is a must do. Didn't get around to Wise Guys Off Size, but it looked great too.

With a distinct approach trail and maybe a nicer way up to and down from the upper level this area would be more popular. Bring some tat. Look around. Maybe you can find a better way up than the blocks and vegetation / loose soil to the fixed line.

There's also some possibilities for new single and multipitch trad routes here. Nov 29, 2018

[Hide Comment] (4-4-19)
Beelzebub
I cleaned off 90% of the loose sand from the past rains on the inside left wall of the crack (on lead). You will feel 25% more secure. Go get on it before it rains again.

Getting to the lower tier:
Bring trekking poles. One possible way is to hike from the Oak Creek Canyon lot in the loop, turn right at the prominent marked 4 way intersection about 1mi in. After about 3 min til around 5 min of hiking be looking to the left for a chola cactus with a fairly clear circle of rocks around it's base about 20' off trail. Walk to and past this, you will see a cairn. Keep going and you will find many more. Some will not make a whole lot of sense.

We still don't know what the best approach is. This is just one of several ways we found that is already cairned, and heavily, potentially from multiple parties over many many years.

Some of the approaches/descents we have taken appear to have completely stupid cairn placements. Like it's a route one party happened to take and used cairns as breadcrumbs, not a route anyone else should ever take.

A better approach to the second tier of routes (Tickled Pink, Beelzebub, Wise Guys Off Size) is still being searched for. Apr 5, 2019

[Hide Comment] Another take on the approach/descent:

I recommend approaching by taking the Oak Creek Trail to the signed junction with the Knoll Trail, following the Knoll Trail north for a few hundred yards, and then heading due west through the desert and up an old rock slide fan that forms an obvious ridge/breach through the red dirt cliff band. This leads directly to the wall. The Growler sits down and left on the lowest cliff; Little Brown, Da Boneyard, Rockingstone Groove are up and right just around the corner from a prominent white buttress. Tickled Pink, Beelzebub, and Wise Guys all start on a ledge 200' off the ground and are approached by scrambling easily up a steep, wide 4th class ramp system that trends up and left. From here you can either climb a terrible pitch to access the left end of the ledge, or if you're lucky, there'll be a fixed line (come prepared to jug - it is steep).

As of February 2020, the fixed line is in good shape but there are a few problems: First, the line is just a bit too short (to be anchored at the base) and you may find that (as we did) it has blown up out of reach. Second, while the line is tied to a robust scrub oak, it passes over a somewhat sharp edge and even though it is currently beefy static, running over this edge it won't last forever.

To get down, you can rap the static and reverse the scramble, but it is much more expedient to rap from a bolt and fixed nut anchor directly under the climb Wise Guys. This anchor could use some work: the bolt is positioned around a sharp corner from the nut and they don’t play well together. A 100' rap leads to a bushy ledge, and then an 80' rap from a tree (difficult to access) leads to the ground.

It would be amazing if a future party went up and installed a proper bolted anchor for the fixed line - this would greatly improve its safety and longevity. Adding a second bolt to the rap station below Wise Guys (in lieu of the fixed nut) would improve that rappel, and adding one more bolted anchor on the slab below to replace the awkward tree anchor would really improve the descent. 5x bolts in total.

One more note: The length of Wise Guys is 100-105' and not 150' as noted in Handren. These three routes can be climbed and descended with a single 60m rope and have good bolted anchors. Feb 24, 2020